Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i just got me a bov and was wondering what to adjust it to. it has a screw on it but im not sure what the difference between adjusting it to, to me loosening it make a hissing noise.

also when installed i rev it and hear 1 or 2 flutters from my pod but the bov opens at the same time. i know it opens coz i can feel the air on my hand [self reved from the engine bay]

thanks

also i have searched and after a reading "bovs are gay and blah blah blah" cant really find this info.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245430-hks-ssq-adjustment/
Share on other sites

If it's a genuine HKS SSQV it doesn't have an adjusting screw in it as it's not required.

Cheers

Marty

only the new ones have no screw..the older ones do have a screw

turning it clockwise will set it harder and anti clockwise will set it softer...the more boost your running the harder you set it

i installed a new one and it would stay open for too long and lag my turbo heaps... the older ones must have been heaps better with the adjusting screws..

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

so your saying that a BOV that releases the pressure inside the the inlet piping on gear change isnt working correctly?

since thats exactly what they are designed to do im not sure where the issue is, there should be lag from a system running a BOV as the turbo re-pressurises the piping.

Care to explain this as by design it can't happen.

It has a spring to hold it closed under light vacuum and only opens under high vacuum from the manifold. So as soon as you start opening the throttle again it is closed. It shouldn't have anything to do with making the turbo's laggy. If the BOV vents while boosting there is deffinately something wrong.

Cheers

Marty

Well personally I don't think the new SSQs work well under high boost pressure.

With my current setup i have a HKS 2530kai and im running over 20psi with supporting mods. When i run that much boost with the SSQ it would stay open for a second or two after gear change, and the air would go into atmo instead of back into the plenum..

I'm not sure as to why this happened (too much vaccum under high boost pressure for the SSQ to handle?), but it only happened with the SSQ and not with any other atmo bov that I owned.

I bet you he will tell you its between gears lag,

I fitted a new HKS to a customers S14 SR20DET / T04z, from working perfectly with his old $20 knock off it started to fall right out of boost between gears unless I flat shifted with the HKS, it was replaced with a another unit, same problem....ripped the HKS out and fitted a Greddy RS and presto, no more problems.

I've installed many atmo bovs and they all lagged my turbo in between gear changes (this is normal with atmo bovs).

Oh and I wouldn't have bought a bov if I intended on flat shifting 24/7.

Edited by EVL-R33

Craved, I am quite aware of how a bov works, as I said, lag between gears on the new SSQV was terrible compared to the RS, obviously the SSQV is prone to staying open longer or has slower/buffered piston movement than other name brand bov's.

EVL-R33

With my current setup i have a HKS 2530kai and im running over 20psi with supporting mods. When i run that much boost with the SSQ it would stay open for a second or two after gear change, and the air would go into atmo instead of back into the plenum..

This is exactly what I am talking about, the SR20 in question was running close to 28psi and had an actual delay when shifting, knocks all the power out for a second or two like the bov doesnt close properly of fast enough,,, rip SSQV out and put in Greddy RS and presto no more problem... just regular minimal lag one expects from an abov...

has nothing to do with MAF either, all the cars I do now run VEMS or D-jetro.

In my opinion besides sounding retarded and looking gimiky the SSQV is just an expencive POS. Greddy, Tial or Synapse any day of the week for actual function which is what its there for.

Edited by Rezlo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...