Turbos Are Not Boosting

[phenline]

Hey guys, i just got my car back after getting a set of Young (low km) r33 gtr turbos and dumps fitted and it is not boosting past 0 on my gauge now. The car was boosting before but was lossing pressure due to a broken gasket. The gasket was the main reason i put my car into get fixed but i thought while the old r32 gtr turbos where of i may as well replace them with something a little newer ( also i have heard r33 gtr dumps flow better) and the turbos where not that expensive. But now they are not boosting my mechanic went through a heap of tests to figure out what the problem was but couldnt really put his finger on it. The car felt great after he got them on up until 0 on the boost guage but then obviously has not kick. The car is running Stock ECU cat back suction kit few small things stock boost as well. Just would love to know if anyone has any ideas what could have been missed Do r33 gtr actuators not work with r32gtr? or something similar? Which brings me to my next question. If the Turbos where screwed when you gave them to the mechanic would you have expected him to check them out before he put them on or do you think that is something left to the owner....i dont think it is because no matter how much you think you know iam sure you dont know everything about turbos and therefore just expect them to check, right?

cheers any insight would be great!

[R31Nismoid]

1. Are the actuators connected?

2. Are you 150% positive you have no cooler piping leaks?

3. Are you sure it doesn't make boost? (ie, boost gauge might not be connected)

4. Are you 200% positive you have no cooler piping leaks?

5. Are the BOV's connected correctly so they are holding shut?

As for checking the turbos, other than checking shaft play, there is no real test unless you fully rebuild them.

If you supplied them, and just asked him to fit em... i would say he met his end... but for two turbos not to be 'making' boost, you have a problem other than the turbos themselves i reckon.

Either way, replacing stock turbos with more stock turbos is very counter productive and IMO its nothing more than a gross waste of money/labour etc.

[doo doo]

If it's not running ridiculously rich then you shouldn't have any air leaks that would be large enough to stop boost building, unless your wastegates are plumb back then they might be stuck open. I would check the actuator rods are hooked up to the wastegate tang first, then i would check that they are not too long and holding the gate open. Do you still get vac on the boost gauge? Check it's hooked up, the stock one leaking wouldn't be enough to stop boost however.

[r33_racer]

ignoring the boost gauge altogether...does the car accelerate like its on boost or as if its N/A?

Can you hear the turbos spool?

Check the oil feeds are not clogged. It could be ceased turbos.

Other then that, probably an air leak somewhere.

[phenline]

1. Are the actuators connected?

2. Are you 150% positive you have no cooler piping leaks?

3. Are you sure it doesn't make boost? (ie, boost gauge might not be connected)

4. Are you 200% positive you have no cooler piping leaks?

5. Are the BOV's connected correctly so they are holding shut?

As for checking the turbos, other than checking shaft play, there is no real test unless you fully rebuild them.

If you supplied them, and just asked him to fit em... i would say he met his end... but for two turbos not to be 'making' boost, you have a problem other than the turbos themselves i reckon.

Either way, replacing stock turbos with more stock turbos is very counter productive and IMO its nothing more than a gross waste of money/labour etc.

Hey mate, i dont think it was counter productive at all it was going to cost the same amount to have the gasket replaced as it was to change the turbos so i thourght it would be good to get a new pair in if you know what i mean.

1. the gauge pin needle moves up to 0 but doesnt go past that

2.the bov's are not making any noise ( but they should shouldnt they even if it is just moving up to 0 on the gauge?)

3. a leak would be making a fair amount of noise wouldnt it? and there is no leakin noise or leak as far as they can see

4. if the Bovs where not connected properly wouldnt the car still so signs of boosting?

5. yes i go still get VAC doo doo is this a good sign?

6 r33_racer i hear the turbos start to spool I.e up to vac but then there is no boost.

7. i contacted the guy i got the turbos of just to ask if they where buggered like not caring if he kept my money or anything just wanting to know if i should still persue fixing this problem and he stood by his word and said they where fine and were workin perfectly when they came of his engine

8. before these turbos where on my r32 gtr turbos wher makin boost but loosing pressure due to the gasket

Anymore imput would be great

[PM-R33]

If you have definetely checked over all cooler piping/bovs etc then you gotta start looking at those turbos. Zip-tie the wastegates/actuators shut and take it for a spin, should make full boost as quickly as possible. If it still makes 0 boost (and your boost gauge is 100% connected properly) then there is something wrong with those turbos, ie seized etc.

When it goes up to 0psi ie when it is ment to start making boost, describe what the car does. Does it cough/splutter etc or does it just accelerate through the revs perfectly with shit power? ie as if it was running without a turbo.

[blind_elk]

My experience is that one of the intercooler pipes hasn't gone back together properly. They sit together to prevent air leaks under vacuum (cruise, 'off-boost') conditions, but as soon as you get some boost, the gap just opens up - you get maybe 1psi if you're lucky.

Check ALL the IC piping joins that they are securely assembled.

[phenline]

thanks for the replies!

Blind-elk, i will check all the ic piping again.

pm-r33, when i stamp on the gas it performs as it should up to 0 you start to hear the turbos spin as you would in any turbo car but only up till 0 boost. It doesnt cough or splutter it goes perfectly thru the revs just as if it was non turbo as you put it. the thing is with the turbos already on they are very hard to check before they there put on the blades where turning when you mannually spun them i couldnt see the rear blades though as there was dump pipes attached.

I am now booked in for a big check up of turbo set up with the head mechanic there. If the bov's where not connected properly would there be any other noises i would be experencing? and would this cause the turbos to make 0 boost but still vac even if they where set with teh actuators open to over boost?

[PM-R33]

With the BOV's leaking majorily it could do what is being described but i doubt it, never seen a BOV leak that much to cause no boost to be built at all, usually they open up and leak under boost causing a boost pressure loss during the rev range. However check them anyway.

[doo doo]

If it's not running rich then I find it hard to believe there would be a leak large enough to stop any boost from building. Oh, vac signal means you're gauge is working. Have you checked the actuator arms are connected to the wastegate tangs? They're pretty easy to get to. If you are careful you could disconnect the lines to the actuator fronts (loop them into themselves so you don't run rich) and GENTLY give it a run. It should over boost with this set up. If you do this be very ready to get off the gas when it comes on to boost, you don't want to lunch your engine or turbos.

Sorry just read your last post properly- you've already tried this and no boost?

Edited November 19, 2008 by doo doo

[R31Nismoid]

I had a leak in my piping. Car ran fine, didn't overfuel too badly at all to be honest.

Just no boost pressure so it didn't go anywhere

[Tangles]

I had a leak in my piping. Car ran fine, didn't overfuel too badly at all to be honest.

Just no boost pressure so it didn't go anywhere

same, 1st time it ran fine but no boost so crept her home to fix the I/C leak, next time it happened it was worse (up a hill with load, lol)

afte that I lipped the i/c pipes and used v.good bolt-clamps / 4ply joiners and now the pipes will never leak

go over all the pipes before hitting up the mechanic.

[phenline]

Problem has been FOUND! It appears to be a intake manifold gasket leak >.< so the turbos where fine checked the exhaust wheels where still in place, and there where no IC piping leaks. So that is good at least i dont have to pay to have the old turbos put back in because that would have been realllllly conterproductive and a huge waste of money. Are there any guides about on changing your intake manifold gasket wouldnt mind tryin myself mechanic said would take him about 6 hours.

[R31Nismoid]

How did you knowe the exhaust wheels were still there?

Send a camera up the exhaust?

[PM-R33]

Intake manifold gasket is a bitch on the 26.... The amount of shit in the way due to the 6 throttles is a joke.

[phenline]

PM - R33, yes the job is ment to be fiddly mechanic said would be 6 - 8 hours.

Nismoid - Used a mirror on a stick (opend the exhaust from the front pipes) and a light! Mirror on a stick saving private ryan stylezz

Edited November 22, 2008 by phenline

[Adriano]

Im sorry, but i cant see a blown inlet manifold gasket causing no boost, the manifold would have to be almost falling off to stop all boost.

[phenline]

really..inlet and intake the same gasket right? well that is what i have been told so iam not sure any other suggestions what what it could be now we know the turbos are fine?

[r33_racer]

I would imagine almost all of the gasket would have to be leaking or blown-out for it to leak enough so that the manifold doesnt see any positive pressure at all.

I guess if you fix this problem and it doesnt fix 'it' then its still something else. However, if it does then congratulations! Hopefully you will be trouble free.

Edited November 25, 2008 by r33_racer

[blind_elk]

And it would have been running SUPER LEAN on cruise.