Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-t Air Con Problem

1600r32

By 1600r32,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

1600r32 Contributor

1600r32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If there's no click from the engine and noticable jump in the engine vibration from the compressor engaging then the compressor might be at fault.

The other common is the blend door being broken (sits in behind the centre stack and to the left of the driver side foot well) You can test it by quite easily by adjusting the settings and seeing if the door is moving. They sometimes pop of the ever that actuates them and sometimes they are busted.

See how you go and let us know.

cheers for the post,

tried the bleed door, seems to operate properly. i'm guessing its the compressor but i'm unsure how to fix myself and unsure who to take it to. i have a spare compressor off the old block but that needs a re-con.

cheers,

craig.

No Crust Racing Grand Master

No Crust Racing

Posted
Posted

I just read my post, nice typos lol woops.

Anyway,

If it's not clicking/engaging then you'll likely need an air-con place to check it out. Ask a few mates see if they know or can recommend anyone and always ask for a quote before any work takes place. Be sure to clarify if the quote is free also.

Good luck,

Methods Of Mayhem Film Rookie

Methods Of Mayhem Film

Posted
Posted
hi i have a gtst, had a new motor put in regased the A/C and its still blowing hot air.

had a thought the compressor maybe shot because it doesnt "click" but would like some advise if anyone has had a similar problem.

Hey mate im a Refrigeration mechanic by trade i had the same problem as you on my R32 i got a hole in my condensor and lost all my R12 refrig is yours R12 or R134a also btw but with mine it was the climet control telling the heater to come on theres a heater solinoid behind ya head on ya heater pipes on the firewall in the engine bay repace that and ya should be sweet fixed mine anyways mate cheers ben

  • 2 weeks later...
BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted
no other idea's anyone?

Run the climate control diagnostics first to see if any sensors are playing up. The compressor is switched on via the ECU which receives a signal from the climate control. I had the intake air temp sensor fail in my R32 (it read below 0degs) so the climate wouldn't switch the AC. Solution was a 10c resistor which corrected the sensor and allowed the AC to switch on.

If the sensors all check out ok, you will the need to check the pressure switch (in front of the radiator on drivers side) which protects the compressor when the gas pressure is low. Continuity across the switch will imply good gas pressure. If the pressure is low the switch will be open and won't feed power to the compressor.

Check the DIY section for running the climate diagnostics.

Hope this helps.

jnr_chin Collaborator

jnr_chin

Posted
Posted

if wanting to do a quick check to rule out some main parts

1. check to see that when the a\c is turned on the entire face of the compressor spins

2. if first test is passed there are two hoses entering the firewall behind the stock turbo one above the other switch off and plug them off and join with a small pipe and hose clamps.

test the a\c again. if it cools you can rule out the compressor, the condensor, the dryer, the need for gas and a few other things.

if not you will have to resort to the previous problems stated in the posts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...