Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Got my Nissan R31 Skyline up for sale.

Its a 1987 (series 1) Ti (Luxury model, full electrics etc) that has been a series 3 front and rear end. Gun metal grey in colour. I've owned this car since April and have had no drama's what so ever. This is my 4th R31 and I think I'm growing up a bit and over modifying cars (it hurts my hippocket too much).

This is it in a nutshell:

Exterior:

Series 3 front and rear end.

16 inch Simmons V4/5 Wheels, 16x7 fronts and 16x9 rears.

Federal SS595s 205/50/16s at the front, 99% tread (brand new 3 weeks ago).

Intensa 225/50/16s at the rear, about 75% tread (older than the fronts).

Removed boot spoiler (still have it can include)

Modified front bar.

Interior

NOS Racing seats up front (hard but very comfortable, drove Brisbane to Cairns didn't even get a sore back)

Autotechnica steering wheel

JVC Mp3/CD player

6 inch splits at the front with tweeters

6x9 JVC's in rear parcel shelf

Full electric windows (all work)

Electric mirrors

Electric antenna

Turbo timer

Boost guage (on A pillar)

Extra DC output in glovebox.

Blue door card lights throughout.

Suspension/braking

Front:

HR31 floating hub type struts with HR31 rotors and calipers.

Koni orange adjustable front suspension

Adjustable camber tops

Low king springs in it now, have custom K-Mac springs with 8kg/mm spring rate too go in.

Whiteline Heavy duty 27mm swaybar

Rear:

Monroe gas struts on Pedders sports ryders.

Have Bilstien rear struts from GTS2 to go in, with K-mac springs 6kg/mm spring rate.

Whiteline heavy duty 22mm Swaybar

All bushes have been replaced front to back in the last 12 months. Car handles very well and will handle even better with Bilstiens and new springs in it.

I will include springs and Bilstiens with sale, and will put them in if buyer wants them. Am leaving out for now as it may be too hard for some people.

Drivetrain

R32 1992 RB20DET with roughly 150 thou k's on it. Installed 2006.

5 speed R32 gearbox

Exeedy ceramic brass button clutch

3 inch mandrel bent exhaust from Turbo back.

FMIC intercooler 700x360x70

2.5 inch Intercooler piping made by Rob Bliss in Brisbane.

Standard ecu/injectors/fuel pump etc.

Minispool diff with 3.89:1 gears.

Engine is running at 11psi. Run on BP Ultimate 70% of the time and Shell V-Power the other 30%.

I think I have covered mostly everything.

Car is not thrashed at all, it is my daily driver. It has seen two motorkhanas were it placed very well. Oil changes were done before and after each motorkhana.

Car has had major service on 11/11/09.

No leaks what so ever, no knocks, no rattles. Most excellent car, it is my 4th skyline and by far the best. My previous one wasone with an rb25 in it, and this car is alot nicer to drive and quicker too.

Bad points

Paint on the roof is faded. That is the only bad point on the car... it doesn't fuss me too much so I never got it painted. However a paintshop here quoted $700 to respray the roof and boot.

Pictures

21112008235.jpg

21112008236.jpg

21112008234.jpg

21112008237.jpg

21112008238.jpg

21112008241.jpg

21112008242.jpg

21112008240.jpg

21112008239.jpg

It is going on a dyno this weekend, so I will post a video and picture of the run and final output.

Anymore questions, please PM me or text/ring 0404095980.

Car is in Cairns, QLD and can organise freight/drive it too anyone.

Price is $6,900 ono. I am flexible and will talk a deal with anyone.

Cheers, Todd.

Car has newly gassed and well working A/C, also the 10inch thermo on the front of the radiator is switchable on/off via switch in cabin

Temperature rarely gets too halfway, especially on these hot and humid Cairns days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...