Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I was driving home on Mona Vale Rd at around 70-80km/h when my car stalled. Stalled as in engine off, no power steering, no power assisted brakes. Gauges not working and all in dash lights out.

At the time I was playing music loudly and driving with my head lights on.

Tried to start the car, it would only turn over, no in dash lights, not even Air bag or HICAS. However, my music continues to play, air con continues to work and my clock didn't reset.

After about 30 seconds the dash comes to life and I start the car. Everything sounds as normal. After about 10 mins of driving I decide to see if my car is in limp home mode. Stock boost gage measured full boost where it usually does, revs to 7,000 rpm like it usually does.

I get home, pop the bonnet and try to replicate the problem by loading up the car electrically. Nothing happens. At this point I am relieved and decide to get on with my life, by washing my car.

I drive my car onto the grass and just before I put my hand on the keys it stops. Like before, gauges and lights are dead. This was about an hour ago and it won't start again.

So, what have I eliminated thus far...

Battery/Alternator - Car cranks over just fine

Fuses - All fuses (or at least the ones I can get at) are not blown

Relays - Like fuses, none of the relays show signs of damage

Immobiliser - Immobiliser doesn't cause the dash to die...

My car is stock except for alarm and immobiliser...

Things that I have found odd...

Disconnecting and reconnecting my CAS used to cause some relays to energise and de energise. It doesn't any more.

Fuel pump won't prime at all.

Windows won't go up

Like I said, I'm really at a loss. I wanted to go to Oran Park tomorrow, but it looks like that has gone to shit as I need to fix my car before Monday so I can get to work.

Thanks for any imput

Cass

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/245857-engine-cranks-doesnt-start/
Share on other sites

car wont start with less than 12.6 V

so it can crank over, but not start - if its cranking and no dash lights - its definately the battery voltage issue

just jump start it

Just tried to jump start my car, didn't change a thing. Starter motor works really well though lol

To tell you the truth I'm relieved, if it started that probably would have meant I would be up for an alternator as I'm pretty sure cars aren't usually designed to run off the battery while driving :)

I'm now gong to attack the relays under the dash. I have a feeling that my problem is something to do with them...

Thanks for the help :happy:

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I had the same problem a few weeks back,

-car shut off during driving

-no power steering/indicators/power windows/dash light

-stereo working fine

-it turns over but wont start

Problem turned out to be that on the back of the immobilizer circuit board, one of those small solder has burned off.

I pulled apart my immobiliser, everything looks pristine there. However...

After swapping a relay under the dash with a relay that I had randomly lying around... my car now starts! :) One of the terminals on the old relay was loose... I'd say it rattled itself to death getting me home :happy:

Anyways, I'm stoked! Well... a little pissed off that I missed out on Oran Park today but still, it now works!

Thanks for your help Chris/Daniel/JOn (who didn't post here... but yeah) :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
    • From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v.  I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.
    • 3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access
    • OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales  
×
×
  • Create New...