Gtr Rear Wheel Hub Removal

[MrStabby]

I'm trying to get the 36mm nut off. So far, cheater bar + breaker bar = broken breaker bar (half inch drive).

Is the passenger side one reverse threaded? Should i be able to do this with half inch drive? Any other tips or do i just take it do a shop?

[BHDave]

they are both normal thread. I've done them with half inch drive breakers before, but the first time is always the hardest

Replace the breaker bar and try again. (done that as i broke one)

Weld your socket to a long bit of thick walled gal pipe (done that on my previous car as i couldn't crack it with the pipe over the breaker trick)

Or failing that get a 3/4 drive rattle gun. (makes very short work of it and cheap on ebay)

Soak it in wd40 over night before trying again.

[DECIM8]

Spray with WD40 .. lol pipe on breaker

Edited November 22, 2008 by DECIM8

[MrStabby]

Thanks guys - its soaking in WD40 now. I'll try it again tomorrow with the $50 sidchrome 450mm breaker. Hopefully it will live.

Decim8 - Did you get yours off yet?

[Victory]

I got mine off with a 3/4 inch rattle gun and some WD40 - not a problem.

Prior to that my 600mm 1/2 inch breaker bar was just bending and it was going nowhere. I really think that the impact from the rattle gun is what is required because it came off so easy compared to me busting a gut and getting nowhere.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

trolley jack handle + your body weight

[DECIM8]

Klotter my bearing is soo rooted I sprayed some wd40 and un-wound it via finger tips lol.. Yes my rim is basically about to fall off.

Still waiting on bearing from japan.. Think ill be telling nissan to put it on haha

[Duncan]

like jjjjjrs said, breaker bar and long extension like a jack handle will get you there one day. of course rattle gun is much easier, but if you had one I guess you would have used it already.

one thing about breaker bars - always put the jack handle/fence post/whatever right down to the bottom of the handle - otherwise all you will do is break it. in fact a short and more solid bar will be better than a long one when you are looking for the extra leverage of an extension.

Nathaniel - definately get a workshop to do that job. needs a big press to get the bearing in and out. its a bastard of a job

[DECIM8]

Even for the R34 with pre cast mold with bearing inside?

[abu]

You have to remove the hub to change a wheel stud hey?

I need to change my left rear wheel stud..

[MrStabby]

Ok this is officially pissing me off. I'm now at the stage where i want to separate the flange from the axle housing so i need to remove the 4 bolts and "brake anchor pin". Of course there's no room at all to get any sockets or spanners in there. Do i have to undo all the suspension arms and tie rod and remove axle housing first or is there some trick to removing the flange in situ?

[Dan_J]

so u havent undone the hub bolt ? or have you installed the new hub and are just getting the knuckle off your old ones?

if you mean the knuckle that your shocks and arms bolt on i just put it on a bench vise and undid them with the breaker + cheater

or are u just taking the hub and axle out so a shop can undo them?

[MrStabby]

so u havent undone the hub bolt ? or have you installed the new hub and are just getting the knuckle off your old ones?

if you mean the knuckle that your shocks and arms bolt on i just put it on a bench vise and undid them with the breaker + cheater

Ok, so it sounds like i need to take the knuckle off the car completely so i can separate the knuckle from the hub assembly. I dont have a vice to that's going to be interesting...might have to take that to a shop as u suggest. Either way it sounds like there's no shortcuts.

thanks