Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Tomek

Recommended Posts

The 1.06 housing is going to be far to large for the stuart hillclimbs and the bitumen sprints. Definetely go the .82 on the GT35 if your serious about these events and are set on only one of those options, even that im thinking might not be as resposive as you would want.

i tried telling him about that exhaust housing choice but didnt want to listen by the sounds of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i tried telling him about that exhaust housing choice but didnt want to listen by the sounds of it.

no more like

"GT35R is crap, T04z comes on song sooner"

The 1.06 housing is going to be far to large for the stuart hillclimbs and the bitumen sprints. Definetely go the .82 on the GT35 if your serious about these events and are set on only one of those options, even that im thinking might not be as resposive as you would want.

Richard has the garrett TO4z on his supra in a .82 im pretty sure (not sure if you knew rich) and it was the same response as having the orginal twins setup as a true twin system, not the sequential setup. It wasn't too laggy however that's obviously on a 3L.

Never got a chance to check out his set-up once he got it all sorted :laugh:

Might have to take a stab at the .82 and go from there. (not planning on being up here in NQ for too long so want the car to be good for open circuits in the future)

I am currently upgrading my Single Apexi IHI RX-6 TCW77P25 (makes 300kw on 20psi (lol or 24psi doesnt make any more HP as it cant flow anymore)) and is massively responsive!!! Makes the car very fast around the circuit.

I have gambled and am going for a GT35 .82 rear on a reasonably simple rb26. Will post my results next week. Aim is 350kw on 20psi But I am happy to sacrifice up top for as much down low as possible...

Car is only used for circuit, want to do some hill climbs etc too, which I think I might find it a bit laggy but hell, will soon see....

Michael

Looking forward to the results mate, good luck!

Edited by Tomek
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might have to take a stab at the .82 and go from there. (not planning on being up here in NQ for too long so want the car to be good for open circuits in the future)

Oh ok that's fair enough. On a more open circuit it does open up other choices than our little tight track :laugh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh ok that's fair enough. On a more open circuit it does open up other choices than our little tight track :laugh:

Exactly mate, lol...

Either way should put on a good show for the sprint viewers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im running a t04z in my time attack GTR... 1 bar by low 4k ish, full boost (25psi) around 5000rpm. With an 8800 rev limit, that gives me a fairly wide power band to work with.

Sounds about consistant with the few I've seen do. A GT35R on an equivalent 2.6 seems to get 1bar by 4000rpm and 25psi around 4500rpmish - so everything seems to happen nearly 500rpm earlier on the GT35R.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im running a gt35r with the .82 housing, atm i have about 400hp atws running 15psi, its getting re tuned this thursday and i will post up both before and after results. If only you lived closer id let you take it for a drive.

hey mate..

looking forward to results.

pm sent

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anna (msnismo) just upgraded from a GT3540 to a T04Z (RB25), being built buy dave (T04GTR) this week. I suggest if you're really having trouble deciding that you shoot Anna a PM. :laugh:

Ash was pretty much spot on with his power ranges though... The T04Z will crack 400kw but will be pretty laggy (expect to spend most if not all of your time above 5krpm) and the GT3540 will be more responsive, but you'll have to ring it's neck to get the kind of power you want (don't think you will get it up to 400).

If you're already set up for twins, I would seriously think about keeping it that way. :wub:

I think your a little off on the predictions there, a 35r will make 400rwkw and more on a properly set-up motor... a t04z is only just getting started at that point.

In terms of response, unique1's t04z on a stroker was roughly equivalent to my 35r with std capacity when we were running similar comp ratio's. In hindsight I would have gone a gt30r or similar, the 35r is too laggy to be quick around ahg or similar short tracks where most of the action is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let’s compare apples to apples

Garrett GT3540R,GT35R,GT3582R and 56 trim Billet R-GTV

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 61.2mm, Major 82mm.

Turbine Wheel

Major 68mm, exducer 62mm.

Garrett GT3540R,GT35R,GT3582R compressor map

GT35RCompressormap.jpg

Billet S62-GTV (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 62 mm, Major 84mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 68mm, exducer 62mm.

Billet S62-P (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 62 mm, Major 84mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 74.2mm, exducer 64.6mm.

Billet S62 Compressor map

S62ETTCompressormap.jpg

HKS TO4Z, Garrett TO4Z and Billet Z-P

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 66.7 mm, Major 84mm.

Turbine Wheel

Major 74.2mm, exducer 64.6mm.

Garrett TO4Z Compressor map

t04zcompress.gif

Garrett GT4088R

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 63.5mm, Major 88mm.

Turbine Wheel

Major 77mm, exducer 68mm.

Garrett GT4088R Compressor map

GT4088RCompressormap52trim.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forget fanciful horsepower figures and try and go fast on the track. You can't race a dyno.

Try a .8x GT30 and a bunch of boost.

I reckon even the .82 GT35R will be too laggy for what you're describing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

T04Z is a 440-450rwkw turbo

GT35 is 350-380 give/take

my GTR made 400kw with a GT35 on BD4's dyno yesterday and we neva got to finish tuning it because we had into fuel problems but i was pretty sure a GT35 wouldnt be able to make 400kw as well untill i saw it with my own eyes

im using a .78 divided exhaust housing and it doesnt have any boost control wat so ever but it does come on boost hard

planing on adding another external gate onto the manifold to help with the boost control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I find more amazing is that you can push 400rwkw's throught the .78 divided ex housing. I actually didn't think it would flow that much.

Good to hear because I'm putting that ex housing on a dual gate divided manifold and running a 3071 for now (on my sr). Least I know I can throw on a GT35 with that housing (albeit machined out to suit the GT35) without having to get a new manifold made up for a T4 footprint housing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might have to take a stab at the .82 and go from there. (not planning on being up here in NQ for too long so want the car to be good for open circuits in the future)

are you coming to SE QLD? As I think (and why I gambled chucking my super responsive apxi turbo) is I think Queensland Raceway will reward HP and a GT35 that is still reasonably responsive and a bigger turbo. Will soon see.... :|

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a old dyno graph, crap picture i know, I am not sure of all the mods done to the car but bassically as far as i know its relativley mild. Gt35r, power fc, 600cc injectors, and twin fuel pumps on a near stock rb26

the red line is 15psi and the green is 12psi so i have been told

26112008028.jpg

I will be at a tuner tomorro for a service and a retune.

Edited by el capitan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a few more a bit smaller than the GT35R and Billet R-GTV

Garrett GT30R, GT3076R

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 57mm, Major 76mm.

Turbine Wheel

Major 60mm, exducer 55mm.

Garrett GT30R, GT3076R Compressor map

GT30Rcompressormap.jpg

Billet S56-GT3 (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 56mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 65mm, exducer 56.6mm.

S56 (ETT) Compressor map

S56ETT.jpg

Billet S58-GT3 (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 58mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 65mm, exducer 56.6mm.

Billet S58-GTV (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 58mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 68mm, exducer 62mm.

S58 (ETT) Compressor map

S58ETT.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi there, after a quick google search I found this topic as I am also relocating the battery to the boot of my 1998 GTT. I was just wondering how you got on with installing the re-routing and specifically the installing of the harness protectors? How do they attach? Are they just a simple "click-in" affair, or do they attach with bolts? Does the GTT have all the necessary fixing holes for them, for example, where they locate on the chassis? Any help you can provide would greatly appreciated.
    • Thanks mate, yeah I've heard that alot and i am definitely regretting using the 25 Loom now, i have gone through and traced all the plugs from the 20loom and re wired them into the 25 loom, I have currently got Crank, Fuel and accessory's working, just need to finalise the loom and run the wire for the Ignition (Spark) and it should be running, will update if i have any luck.
    • Cheers lad, when I head over there I'll give it a shot.
    • Stock less likely to carry one like that than urethane, but still can, especially if the bolts are not as tight as they should be. If it's making that much noise you should be able to use a hose as a stethoscope> stick one end in your ear, crouch down and wave it around the various possible noise makers and get someone to lift the front end at the guard lip.
    • Broken actuator rod. Could be one of a couple of them broken. Or, it's locked and the central locking actuator is broken/stuck or the actuator rods between it, the lock and the key barrel are jammed or broken similarly. You'll probably need a locksmith/mechanic who is experienced with using slim tools to reach down next to the window glass to manipulate the mechanism. That's assuming that it is not so severely jammed/broken that nothing useful will move.
×
×
  • Create New...