Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)

[Tomek]

Keep it coming guys, so far it's one sided

Here is a few more a bit smaller than the GT35R and Billet R-GTV

Garrett GT30R, GT3076R

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 57mm, Major 76mm.

Turbine Wheel

Major 60mm, exducer 55mm.

Garrett GT30R, GT3076R Compressor map

Billet S56-GT3 (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 56mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 65mm, exducer 56.6mm.

S56 (ETT) Compressor map

Billet S58-GT3 (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 58mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 65mm, exducer 56.6mm.

Billet S58-GTV (ETT)

Compressor Wheel

Inducer 58mm, Major 80mm + (ETT)

Turbine Wheel

Major 68mm, exducer 62mm.

S58 (ETT) Compressor map

I have NFI how to make anything of that..

[Kranker]

when comparing turbos its handy to be able to make sense of compressor maps

have a read of this, its not a bad "how to" guide (a 2 second google search got me this)

http://www.enginelogics.com/cmaps.html

its not the be all and end all but its a good way to start comparing two turbos

[SimonR32]

a standard stroke rb26 with a t04z wouldn't be as bad as some people think

as long as you keep the needle a bit above 4000rpm it will sit you right back in your seat in any gear and when you swing a rb26 to 8500-9000 thats a lot of revs to play with

driving a Z on the street you dont even have to wind the revs that hard, i was changing at around 7500rpm most of the time and the next gear sits you back in your seat straight away

saying that i would go a gt3076r or 3082r with a 0.8x bum if you wanted to track a lot, you should be able to make 350-370rwkw and be bullshit responsive and trust me a GTR with that much power is fvcking quick...

forget the gt35r with either a 0.8x or 1.0x bum, if you want more power go a z, you loose a tiny bit of response but gain a huge amount of mid range and top end

Edited November 28, 2008 by Cerbera

[SimonR32]

to make it simple, if you...

go a 3082R/3076R you wont regret it, it will be fvcking fast on the road or track

go a 3582R and you will either want the power of a T04Z or the response of a 30R

go a Z and you wont remember anything cause itll be fvcking fast and you will scare the sh1t outta anyone who wants to ride shotgun

Edited November 28, 2008 by Cerbera

[SimonR32]

and go low mounts if your inclined to want to play with R31Nismoid's boy bits

[R31Nismoid]

Here is a old dyno graph, crap picture i know, I am not sure of all the mods done to the car but bassically as far as i know its relativley mild. Gt35r, power fc, 600cc injectors, and twin fuel pumps on a near stock rb26

the red line is 15psi and the green is 12psi so i have been told

I will be at a tuner tomorro for a service and a retune.

Can you explain how you get a IT temp thats lower than the ambient?

What kinda trickery is being used there?

Water to air cooler? Iced cooler? or what?

[SimonR32]

ambient temp sensor may have been sitting next to a hot computer fan blowing air on it?!?

[2rismo]

Intake temp probe in right spot but dyno fan running?

[R31Nismoid]

Intake temp probe in right spot but dyno fan running?

lol i know that

I just thought (on the odd chance) it was something legit like a water to air

[Public Enemy]

Hahahahaha ROFLMAO

and go low mounts if your inclined to want to play with R31Nismoid's boy bits

[archie01]

Hi guys,

Having a hard time working out what I want for my car.

Before I get into this... YES i have searched, found some info but didn't match what I was after... or was uncompleted "Il post my dyno results next week" and then nothing, all the threads had HEAPS of opinions but no facts or proof, since these threads come up all the time id like to compile a thread which will end all

Had a nice 2860-7 set-up planned for the car.. While stripping her, one of the coolant flare nuts seized... Result? Yanked the motor, opened her and started building her..

-26 block, 20 thou over

-HKS dove cut 86.5mm pistons

-fully prepped 33 crank

-eagle rods

-Genuine nissan bearings

-studs etc

-HKS full gasket kit

-N1 oil pump (at this stage, might upgrade to Tomei or Jun)

-N1 water pump

-jun baffle

-freshened up head

-new valve springs & guides

-in and ex hks 280 degree 10.2 lift step 2 camshafts

-HKS cam gears

-new balancer (yet to purchase)

bla bla bla

got a tial 44mm gate ready, 800cc injectors and 1x 044 (will need another for the Z and a cooler)

Compression ratio is going to remain very close if not standard atm..

Unsure if I want to go for a GT35R (1.06 housing, mech gave me the option of switching to .82 if i find it laggy)

or

a Garrett T04z..

Really confused atm.. Everyone is telling me different things;

-Garrett T04z's are crap

-The T04z will spool much quicker

etc etc... Its not one sided so im having great difficulty here.. I just want the car to be perfect for me..

It's a street car which I track and hill climb, im trying to get serious with my motorsport so don't want a lag monster, but understand that I will in both cases experience lag.. unsure if the extra power of the Z will offset the lag in satisfaction.

Looking for about 400kw on high boost.

Any info, or more so experiences would be great..

Have NFI how any of these perform on a stock capacity 26. I do not want to make the wrong decision.

Appreciate the info!

I had a TO4z on a standard stroke rb26 that i tracked.

For ur intended purpose I wouldn't bother going TO4z.

I can't comment on the smaller single turbo's since i have had no experience with these on my car.

I now have -5's.

Average power much better than with T04z and more streetable too.

As someone said previously, u can't race a dyno number.

It's about average power on the circuit.

Cars with 70rwkw less than me (these were tt gtr's) were breaking away coming out of slower corners and i would catch up to them by the next corner and then the process would repeat itself...was frustrating....unless there was a long straight on that circuit in which case i could stretch its legs and pass.

Response in any gear from lower rpm MUCH better with twins compared to having the TO4z.

TO4z would be ideal on a 3ltr.

Did i say TO4z enought times????

My experiences....

[discopotato03]

It sounds like this thread is going round in circles - so to speak .

Firstly what exactly does the original poster want from his engine/car .

I personally don't give a rats date about Kw or boost numbers , but a broad usable torque spread has to be good .

I think it's difficult to relate chassis dyno numbers to real world conditions so a set power number ie 400 Kw doesn't mean a whole lot to me .

I know it's really easy to look at compressor maps and say this one can pump 400 Kw worth of air and that one 380 but how does it relate to torque down the drive line ?

The bottom line is that a GTR is a heavy car for a 2560cc low compression ratio engine and they usually have to rev to make impressive grunt as in power for the weight .

I'd be more worried about head and cam upgrades while it's in a thousand bits , same old same old , higher static CR larger exhaust valves good porting - make it breathe so it can generate power without high boost .

Turbo wise IMO a T04R BB turbo (T04Z if you like) uses dinosaur wheels - nothing even remotely like a GT4088R or GT4094R let alone a GT3582R . The mere mention of "T04" gives it away .

The best T04Z's are the HKS ones - only because they went to a lot of trouble with their unique turbine and compressor housings .

Off the shelf GT3582R's will always be hamstrung because of their single scroll T3 flanged turbine housings , diesel plain bearing versions often use huge twin scroll turbine housings .

A port shrouded T04S comp cover wouldn't go astray and they are suposed to be making them soon .

For what I thing you are trying to achieve I wouldn't bother with a single scroll GT3582R or T04Z , in the long run you'll achieve the pulse separation and multiple waste gates far easier with parallel IW twins - esp on a car that has this system standard .

What's a pair of 2530's on std cleaned up manifolds good for with a really flying head and cam setup ?

A .

[Lithium]

What's a pair of 2530's on std cleaned up manifolds good for with a really flying head and cam setup ?

On the cases I have seen so far in NZ, similar to a .82a/r GT3582R and in my opinion the boost threshold on the GT35R (running a GOOD exhaust manifold and cam setup) definitely gives nothing away to them. The GT2530s seem to reach 20psi in the mid 4000rpm range, GT3582R similar (if not a little earlier). The GT2530s on Dynapacks over here seem to get from 390 to 430kw @ wheels, GT3582R... quite a bit rarer on RB26s so haven't seen the upper limit but we've seen 400kw so far, and thats not with an ideal setup. Hopefully will be able to report closer to 430kw in the new year

I wouldn't bother with a GT3076R on an RB26 personally, I think if you are going to go to the effort of upgrading you may as well make good power - you'll always be wanting for more. I have never heard of something running GT-SS or N1 turbos and not at some point along the line asking "What should I got for - GT2530s/GT2860s or should I consider GT-RS" type questions.

A T04Z on the other hand in my opinion is a bit too big for an RB26 used for street and if I DID want to go something like that, as DP motions towards - a GT40 based twin scroll setup would be my choice in a heartbeat. A GT3582R will definitely feel like you have a big turbo on the car, but not so much so that its a pain in the arse - they are right at the "fun" level, when they pass 4000rpm things become lots of fun. If you NEED more grunt down low, go a GT3582R or a T04Z and run an RB30 bottom end - the response and grunt from down low is insane.

If you have a GT35R on an RB26 and aren't able to make it work on a track when there are people like Roy with a RWD RB20DET powered car with a "big" turbo on it eating GTRs around tight tracks, the engine/turbo set up is NOT your problem.

Edited November 28, 2008 by Lithium

[DCIEVE]

With a 3582 .82 I'm making 1bar by 3900 and 1.4bar by 4300, the boost curve lays over after 1bar due to some fairly obvious boost control issues so I'd say 20psi could be done by 4100 or better, it also makes 435rwkw at 1.7bar on a hubber. My experience with a friends 26 using 2530's was closer to 4500 for the 1bar mark.

[Billet Ricky]

Dyno Graph of Billet Z-P with open 1.06 A/R Exh Hsg on 2.6L RB26

The car in action

[Tomek]

Purchased my 35R today, got a great price on it . Went with the 1.06 (I HAVE the option of changing to 0.82), looking forward to the eventual fitment

Dyno Graph of Billet Z-P with open 1.06 A/R Exh Hsg on 2.6L RB26

The car in action

Any more info on this car mate?

[Lithium]

Purchased my 35R today, got a great price on it along with my 6 boost . Went with the 1.06 (I HAVE the option of changing to 0.82), looking forward to the eventual fitment

Awesome, congrats! That will be a good mix - 1.06 might be a little bigger than I'd have gone with but she'll certainly have some top end rush Look forward to hearing how it comes out.

[wrxkilla]

awesome

when you throwing it on the car?

Mine is strapped on the car on the 6boost manifold, will be tuned in the next few days i hope.

35R 0.82 rear. will post dyno sheets in here...

[R32-GTS]

Dinosaur wheels or not , my gtr was singing hard by 4200rpm making peak of 454rwkw's with a t04z might have made more but ran outta injectors . Seems to be a really good turbo for a built rb26. Mine didnt feel that laggy at all and was about the same response as a mate with hks 2530's on his gtr. 4000-9000 is a pretty good rev range to work with .

[Rezlo]

T04Z is a 440-450rwkw turbo

GT35 is 350-380 give/take

So i'm not sure where you get they are the same, will spool earlier or whatever.

GT35 is smaller. Therefore its going to be more responsive.

If you dont want a laggy car, then a T04Z is not for you, simple as that. You want the GT35 in a .82 or a set of -5's

I ran a GT35 .82 then swapped to a twin scroll T04z with correct built manifold on my built RB25, in my car the T04z is more responsive than the GT35 and is also smoother coming into boost, I am now seeing .5bar up to 250rpm earlier than the GT35 and in boost the T04z is night and day compared... so much so that at 2bar I now drive in fear more than fun... even in low boost i FAR prefer the "fluid" feeling of the T04z compared to the on off switch GT35 which also shows its self in the added traction I now have in low boost at 1bar

Not sure how people get these turbo's to be so "laggy"? maybe bad design manifolds or poor selected turbine housings?