Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

It's Cerberas graph.

I used that one instead of Natallottos because Cerbera has no head porting, and just mild 270 degree cams.

The 35R has been scaled 5% to take into account its on a hubber.

It's the closest thing I could get to a fair comparisson between the two, and subsequently, I've just purchased a 35R.

just as a comparison we usually get 20psi by 4000rpm with a t04z and make 370rwkw or more on the same boost

So then of the two who are we believing?

The graph you put in, regardless of correction shows nothing of the response spoken of.

If it was 20psi @ 4000rpm why does it take 1000rpm before it actually makes power if the boost is there... very confusing

2l8j9fc.jpg

Spoolup has a to4z on his rb30det.

There's a few dyno sheets on the link below.

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SpoolImportsR33.asp

R34 NEO head - HKS 272 / 9.35 cams, Performance Valve Springs

Garrett T04Z turbo 0.96 ex housing

23psi 581rwhp.

The boosts knee so to speak appears to be a little after 4000rpm.

A pair of 272 10.5mm lift cams would work much better on his setup.

As for a GT35 pushing more than a genuine 400rwkw (535rwhp) on the RB with pump fuel. I'm not a believer. :D

Well I went within a couple kw of 400rwkw on tenagah's dyno dynamics with a slipping clutch and delaminating rubber not forgetting there are more powerful gt35 equipped cars getting around...

ie on the same hubber that I made 435odd another properly built 26 (272's etc) has done ~450rwkw.

Ash, I believe Simon is referring to boost on the road loaded up in 4th which, if my car is anything to go by, gives much better results than the dyno.

So then of the two who are we believing?

The graph you put in, regardless of correction shows nothing of the response spoken of.

If it was 20psi @ 4000rpm why does it take 1000rpm before it actually makes power if the boost is there... very confusing

I've gone back and checked the figures, there is a typo in the data from the graph I posted (apologies).

2niunpk.jpg

and here is Simons graph:

l_b7eca4ab19da63cf98eae41ae9b99bfc.jpg

I reckon there is a good chance your 5% difference estimation between the hub dyno and rolling road might be a bit off, almost to the point where they actually probably read about the same. If you look at the plots, notice the T04Z has more grunt at around 3000rpm than the GT3582R when they are just building boost? At pretty much any stage where they are running similar boost levels (the GT35 is actually running more at every point of the graph) the T04Z is making more power than the GT3582R but unless the car with the T04Z has a bigger motor, that is quite unlikely. It would be MUCH more likely for the GT35 to have more power at 3000rpm....

honestly i dont think a comparision from two different dynos with possible different ramp rates, air temps, etc is a true indication of a proper comparision, these two engines are alot different as well with cam choice etc so that doesnt help. The only way to compare is back to back turbo swap on the same engine with the same dyno and same air temps then it might be realistic. There is enough variation in readouts from one dd dyno to another dd dyno, so comparing to a hub dyno as well is pretty hard to get accurate.

I reckon there is a good chance your 5% difference estimation between the hub dyno and rolling road might be a bit off

I've seen quite a few, including my own car, which have shown almost exactly a 5% difference between the Hubber at All-Star and the roller at X-Speed.

By no means am I suggesting this is 100% accurate, but its a decent indication, and all it is is two dyno charts plotted on the same graph.

thanks for the vid. :D

that run was an 11.5

next run was 11.1

cheers very much. :laugh: lol

Hey Michael..

Would you be able to go over the details of your car..

Engine build, supporting mods & complete turbo set-up

Curious.. Id like to compare my build to yours (see if I havn't taken any short-cuts along the way) also curious on your 8,500 redline.. Making power all the way to the cut?

PM me if you like, but I dare say some parties on here would be itching to know also

Cheers

Tomek

Edited by Tomek

Sorry but it seems like my post was either ignored or overlooked.

What would the other determining factors (other than the turbo) as to where/how quick your car builds boost/power?

Eg; if two cars using identical turbos (incl rear housing), what would be the MAJOR things that differntiate their power outputs?

eg

-maifold design

-cams

-exhaust size

OR is it a bit more complicated than that........ :(

because i guess you could get a properly set up GT35 making power nearly as early as a poorly set up T04Z Right?

sorry if this doesnt make sense, im just trying to understand the 'bigger picture'

Sorry but it seems like my post was either ignored or overlooked.

What would the other determining factors (other than the turbo) as to where/how quick your car builds boost/power?

Eg; if two cars using identical turbos (incl rear housing), what would be the MAJOR things that differntiate their power outputs?

eg

-maifold design

-cams

-exhaust size

OR is it a bit more complicated than that........ :P

because i guess you could get a properly set up GT35 making power nearly as early as a poorly set up T04Z Right?

sorry if this doesnt make sense, im just trying to understand the 'bigger picture'

Are you talking about turbos on identical engine types because if not then capacity and rpm's and so forth would also play a great roll. Like, for example, the GT35 and T04z function a lot better on stroked Rb26's as they have higher capacity.......close capacity to the 3.0L on which they're meant to run very well on.

I think you also mean: "you could get a properly setup T04z making power nearly as early as a poorly setup GT35...." ????

(the GT35 is smaller than the T04z).

But yeh, I think you could add the size and shape of your intercooler piping and core to the list as well. The more corners and restrictions you have in the how intercooler system from start to finish, the more lag you will have although this would only be very noticeable when you compare the BEST design (similar to V mount) to the absolute WORST design out there!!!

Dump pipe / elbow piece etc behind the turbo would also contribute I guess.

Induction system into turbo inlet.....hi-flow filter vs factory paper element filter etc. Oh, and if you have some cold air or not....partition/cold air box and snorkle etc.

That's just some things I can think off... ;-)

To add to the mix in this thread, I'm going with a GT3040/76r on my stock-stroke GTR. I'm chasing good response and power but am not using twins. I've been wanting to go with a GT35 or T04z for a long time but I want to keep the response.....not to mention that, with the bigger turbos you'd want to be using external gates which don't fall under any of the mod plate codes (something which is a must these days, especially when you drive your car to the track) If I weren't so concerned about the legal side of things (having been to court and all) I'd be going for a nice GT35 setup.

Edited by tommis85
I've gone back and checked the figures, there is a typo in the data from the graph I posted (apologies).

2niunpk.jpg

and here is Simons graph:

l_b7eca4ab19da63cf98eae41ae9b99bfc.jpg

haha, i noticed that something was wrong with that graph ages ago but kept on forgetting to mention it...

as far as 20psi at 4000rpm, on a flat road in 4th gear... load up from 3000rpm and defi peak reads a touch over 1.5bar and power fc reads peak revs of 4000rpm

done it about 100 times and it comes the up the same every time, in 3rd gear it would get 20psi at around 4300rpm

ps. brockas, now you have seen graphs again are you slitting wrists u didnt go a z :P

hah not at all champ, besides, at least I still have my GT-R.

The GT35 is physically a smaller turbo. It will spool quicker than a T04Z, unless the fabled Z somehow defies the laws of physics. Considering my car is primarily driven on the track, that's exactly what I need.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I've done a few BMS systems. Code in Canada use to force us to have any safety components outside of the PLC but with a code change back in 2018 I believe it was, we can now use safety PLC's to control everything. Sadly to your point, AB Guardlogix safety instructions for example are only available in ladder.  Machine safety is a very big thing here though, you're constantly forced to migrate to the next best thing by OSHA. I honestly prefer safety plc's, including anything from AB more then I do working with old school safety monitoring relays. PLC is only one portion of it, the rest of the electrical still has to follow to meet SIL (Mechanically linked dual contacts, bla bla)  Now tell me how to feel about safety over comm's (e.g Ethernet/IP CIP) on a unmaintained network haha
    • To your point, boolean logic. We're not only working with bools in ecu's, so it's very limiting. I wanted to setup a low WMI pressure alarm. After 1 second I want WMI line to hit 100PSI, 2 seconds 175PSI, etc. and trigger an alarm if it doesn't meet those thresholds. This would of taken me one very short line of text, but instead I had to bugger around with generic timers, conditions, etc. and so forth.
    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
×
×
  • Create New...