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Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Tomek

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which started the thread ... :)

speaking of this thread, bottom end is complete, head is back ... 264 in 272 ex

Only finalising oil pump (got an N1, but afraid of using it) before the whole she-bang goes in.. should be able to update in a handful of weeks when motor is run-in and dyno-ed.

BTW 1.06 housing 35R on worked 26...

Tomek

LOL very true Tomek - sorry, keep on forgetting haha!

It'll be awesome when it's done I reckon. I'm interested in seeing how your 1.06 housing spools....mine's a .82

I'll have to pay close attention to the tacho and see extactly when the GT35 begins to spool and when it hits full boost and see how much of a difference it makes with the adjustable cams when I get them. It's meant to be quite noticeable according to the thread :)

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Also guys, just a little question going on from the Cam gears. What happens with the variable valve timing if you replace the intake cam gear as well - not just the exhaust gear like some people do?

Do you disable the variable valve timing? I take it that most of you would have come across this already seeing that you'd be running adjustable cam gears.

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Also guys, just a little question going on from the Cam gears. What happens with the variable valve timing if you replace the intake cam gear as well - not just the exhaust gear like some people do?

Do you disable the variable valve timing? I take it that most of you would have come across this already seeing that you'd be running adjustable cam gears.

rb26 dont have variable valve timing

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Vspec R33, thanks for the info mate - very much appreciated as always. The thing is that I'm not on terribly big budget but nor do I want to take out a loan for the mods. I guess you see a lot of people who have these massive horsepower cars and a sh[t load of money and you wonder how the hell they do it. This is a bit of a reality check. Ideally you'd want to have it all on there at once but I've chosen to span it out over a couple of main stages that should see it complete by around April.

Stage 1: (completed)

Manifold, turbo, braided oil and water lines, fpr, 2 into 1 air intake pipes, turbo to intercooler pipe, stainless dump to 3" system, safe tune

Stage 2:

Fuel pump, adjustable cam gears and re-tune with retardation and advancement as per your recommendations (pump's not providing enough pressure and cam gears would make the car more stable for now)

Stage 3:

Haltec E11 or Power FC plus full tune up

Stage 4:

Intercooler, oil cooler, fuel cooler, splitfire coilpacks.......etc etc

Those are the stages. Obviously it would be most efficient to do them together as it would save money in re-tuning but seeing that it's a daily driver and I'm currently putting up with it's lumpyness (carefully) I have to get the work done progressively. I'm sure there are plenty of people on here in the same boat. Some may be lucky to have a second daily driver so that the project can be left in the garage.

Vspec R33, what do you think of them stages?

I'd suggest moving the power fc to the top of your modifying list, and add it a good wideband exhaust gas monitor. Have a look at www.plxdevices.com and their DM200 series gauge systems with the SM-AFR module. These combined with a power FC Datalogit make for a very powerful tuning aid. The ability to monitor your AFR's at all load points, as well as monitor knock at all load points allows you to properly optimise and make safe what you already have, and of course what you will have further down the track.

Its wise to make changes that affect one system all at once. Eg, injectors, fuel pump, FPR and cooler all as one modification, then re-tune etc. I'd suggest fuel system mods after the PFC/AFR/Datalogit upgrade.

The rest of your planned mods dont really matter what order they happen in. Basicly your after more power and at the moment you dont have the minimum supporting modifications to make that safe. Once youve got the engine management and fuel system you can do whatever you want next. You will already be making a lot more power so i'd lean towards reliability mods like the oil cooler first and save cam gears and intercooler for last.

To answer your other question, Rb26's dont have VVT, so you dont have to worry about that.

Cheers,

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Damn here I go thinking that they did have some form of intake valve adjustment :banana:

Ok, that's all fair enough. There is conflict between recommendation on here and what other people say but that's cool. Perhaps I'll just go for the ECU first along with a set of adjustable cam gears to specify the degrees of advancement and retardation that you wrote in a previous post.

So, immediately from here PFC and adjustable cams are highest priority? I'll focus on getting the engine running properly and safely first by the means of the PFC/Gears and then slowly build up the mumbo AFTER that has been achieved.

Guys, my tuner told me that he could make the GT3582 run without the computer and that is obviously incorrect now. I guess it's some results for the thread. Results of what NOT to do, but results nevertheless:

Bolt internally gated GT3582 onto stock RB26 engine with factory support. Only mod is 3" exhaust and pods.

304.6rwhp on 15 pounds (torque as per picture posted previously)

Is drivable but can be a bit bumpy at 60km/h

Drives fine on highway at 100km/h

Comes on boost at around 4500rpm

Extremely laggy below 4000 (lol)

Quite fun above that :P

There we go, my results for the SAU community ;-)

I'll definitely keep posting up my results on here. The car should transform with the computer and cam gears dialed in to suit the bigger turbo. I'll look at the exhaust sensors as well - makes sense to use a decent one with your new computer.

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wow. thats the same response as annas t04z at the moment with no tune change..

i strongly suggest you get an ecu without airflow meters.

powerfc + z32 afmx2+injectors= $

or haltech + injectors = $

makes plumbing alot easier and your not counting on 12year old airflow meters.

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wow. thats the same response as annas t04z at the moment with no tune change..

i strongly suggest you get an ecu without airflow meters.

powerfc + z32 afmx2+injectors= $

or haltech + injectors = $

makes plumbing alot easier and your not counting on 12year old airflow meters.

Yep I've been tossing up between the two.

LOL yes she's a lag monster at the moment. Computer and cams and full re-tune should change that! Well it better lol!

I'll post up all results - it should be an interesting thread so long as the RB don't blow up before hand :domokun:

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there are quite a few votes for the vipec ecu's going around. They aren't that expensive and pack a lot of features.

probably a very similar price to buying the powerfc + 2x z32 AFM's

Edited by TiTAN
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But yeh guys, I'm trying to decide between the E11 V2 and the Power FC. Both of the ECU's have their own qualities and offcourse the E11 is the better choice out of the two with many more features not to mention that it gets rid of your AFM's. This is going to be a decision as hard as chosing between a GT35 and T04z haha - could almost start a new thread (omg that rhymes) :D

If I buy a PFC I run the risk of not liking it and having to sell it again for less and then buy the E11. Apparantly RB26's with a big single + 2 into 1 air flow pipe are a b[tch to tune with a PFC, unless you go for the D-Jetro version which I think eliminates the need for AFM's.

....but then some claim they plug in and play just fine! I've got a big document here where a tuner compared the E11 and PFC back to back on a R32 GTR. Will have to go through it.

Just wondering what you guys think. I'm sure there's a even spread of E11's and PFC's out there. (maybe...lol)

Edited by tommis85
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