Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt35r Vs Garrett T04z - Discussion (just Post In This Thread To Create A Database)


Recommended Posts

Cerbera's car has been parted out for about a year, so the T04Z run is a little old.

We're stumped as to why it's restricted. The only thing we can think is the head I'm using (off a 34 N1 motor) has a few imperfections in it which is causing turbulence. I'm using a china manifold, but the same type on Natalotto's car did 630hp with a T04Z. Exhaust is fine, intake is free, plenum is stock, cams are pretty big (270x10.8).

Disco, I'm using the GCG T04 rear for the 35. It's a T4 flanged 0.84 housing. I don't think the rear housing is the issue to be honest.

I would assume that a R34 N1 head stock would be better than or at least on par with my 89 shitter standard head, i'm still thinking it is the manifold. I remember back in the day Natalotto had heaps of problems with his china manifold and they did extensive modifications to it to get it working right. I dont know if Brockas has done anything to his?!?

I agree the boost is all over the shop, ramps hard then creeps and then falls over... which to me points at a manifold issue!!!

my t04z run is about 2 years old, still same dyno, same operator etc etc

Manifold hasn't been touched yet. Simple china shitter ceramic coated and bolted on.

It has a gasket leak on the exhaust side anyways, so the manifold has to come off. May see about modifying it while its off.

i was looking into the to4z with a 3litre bottom end on a 25, personally i think its a bit too large for track, big turbos tend to be slow on track cars, leave larger turbos to the drag racers is my advice. Go Hks GTSS, fantastic turbos for track and relatively tight courses....

I had the pleasure of driving a T04Z'd 25/30 in a 32 GTS4 a couple of weeks ago on the skidpan. Bit laggy compared to the GT30'd R33 I also got to drive, but, when it comes on boost.. HOLY SHIT.

Edited by bubba
I had the pleasure of driving a T04Z'd 25/30 in a 32 GTS4 a couple of weeks ago on the skidpan. Bit laggy compared to the GT30'd R33 I also got to drive, but, when it comes on boost.. HOLY SHIT.

that mikes new settup?!? how much power did he end up making?

Just got back from the workshop.

Compared my GT3582 setup (blue line) with a Cerbera's T04Z setup (green line), which were both run up on the same Dyno Dynamics dyno in shootout mode.

Not sure if Simon's had any issues, but my setup is strangled HARD in the top end. So much so, that adding 5psi and 2 degrees ignition timing gained me a whole 1hp up top. Did gain about 30hp through the mid range though, but I obviously have a large restriction in my inlet/exhaust which isn't allowing any more than 500hp flow.

Anyways, enough ricers excuses, here is the comparison:

11m59gn.jpg

Thats a perfect comparison.

You gain up to 60 hp more through the low - mid range. For a top end trade of of about 70hp.

I actually think you would find the two cars down the 1/4 would be very simular in times.

You have the big advantage though as your car would be more driveable on the street / track.

Be interesting to see once you have the issues sorted out.

How the top end power would compare on the same boost levels.

If you end up only trading 30 or so top end HP for a midrange gain of 60hp you will be well ahead.

Yup, but after 6 months of the car being off the road, I'm not touching it again for a while, so will have to make do with that comparison.

If I get the motivation I will fork out for a 6boost manifold and see if that makes a difference.

The manifold is the cheap solution, the head is not so cheap. I'm hoping that with the boost dropping off, that indicates a manifold issue.

Thats a perfect comparison.

You gain up to 60 hp more through the low - mid range. For a top end trade of of about 70hp.

I actually think you would find the two cars down the 1/4 would be very simular in times.

You have the big advantage though as your car would be more driveable on the street / track.

Be interesting to see once you have the issues sorted out.

How the top end power would compare on the same boost levels.

If you end up only trading 30 or so top end HP for a midrange gain of 60hp you will be well ahead.

yeah 3.5-4.5k about a average of 35hp more but from 4.5-8k about a 50hp average more

i dont know what crack you have been smoking butters, but when do you have revs less than 4.5k down a quarter mile :(

i remember the difference in speed of my car on lowish boost (19psi 510rwhp) and high boost (24psi 574rwhp) was not even comparable... 510 was fvcking fast, 574 was just scary :)

  • 2 months later...

Reviving this one once again. Looking for some opinions on the following, given the choice of a 3582 1.06 twin scroll or the equivalent sized borg warner s300sx (83/75 I think) both on a proper twin scroll t4 flanged manifold - which would be the more responsive while aiming for ~500rwhp.

nick have a look at nytsky's engine build thread

he is using a 3076r on a built 25 and making 485rwhp with e85 and an amazing power curve, i'd imagine your motor could make a little more...

i would be thinking along the lines of a 3076r with a 1.0ish split rear

Edited by Cerbera
Reviving this one once again. Looking for some opinions on the following, given the choice of a 3582 1.06 twin scroll or the equivalent sized borg warner s300sx (83/75 I think) both on a proper twin scroll t4 flanged manifold - which would be the more responsive while aiming for ~500rwhp.

I would be going for the TS Gt35R, definitely. I am not convinced on the BWs yet - they COULD be really good but there are contrasting results for them, while the GT35Rs are a very known quantity.

That was going to be my next question, full race are the only ones I've found so far - and at 6-700 delivered (exh housing only) it's looking like buying a whole new turbo will end up cheaper.

Edited by DCIEVE

i think a 3076r with a 1 housing would be pretty awesome suited as simon suggested. With correct setup in a lightweight r31 it would be nuts, mine seems to be abit better now with new exhuast and in a lighter car i could see it be pretty damn good (ill find out soon enough). Ill have to take you for a spin and show you how it goes and response and then u can decide for yourself and mine isnt even sorted properly. Surely a 450hp setup with awesome response would beat a 500hp setup with a fair bit more lag on a track.

on another note, the sloth (scradly) just made 430(allstarhubberlovehp) the other day on a stock neo with cams and a 3076r 0.82 with only around 17-18psi boost with awesome response

surely a built 26 with another 6psi could smash out 500+

DOOOOOOOOO IT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...