Jump to content
SAU Community

Arp Head Studs And Cometic Head Gasket

EVL-R33

By EVL-R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just got the head off my RB25DET, and I purchased some ARP head studs and a Cometic head gasket (for a bullet proof seal :P ). I know the tensioning torque for the studs is about 108Nm for the nut, but does the stud itself have to be tensioned into the block? and if so, what tensioning specs should I use?

My second question is regarding the Cometic head gasket, do I need to use any type of sealants for it?

Cheers.

Edited by EVL-R33
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted

Through experiance Ive found if you hand tighten or more the studs into the block you will end up with small hair line cracks between the bolt hold and water jacket in almost every instance. (not instantly but over time)

I do them up till they nip up then loosen them off half a turn, with loctite the stud will stay in that position while you do the nut up. Leave the loctite 24 hours to do its job before doing the nuts up.

As rule I do this with every stud be it a main stud or head stud etc.

Also be sure to use the paste under the washers and under the nuts to ensure even tightening.

Leave the gasket as it is supplied.

In saying that about the studs in your application you may be fine hand tightening them but my oppinion remains the same about backing them off half a turn.

  • 1 year later...
anthonymcgrath Collaborator

anthonymcgrath

Posted
Posted

hey guys hope you dont mind me reviving an old thread rather than just starting a new one and just being told to search lol!

I'm just about to tackle this job on my own RB25DET at the moment but I wanted to be sure I'm getting it all before I do...

So finger tighten the studs into the block. Use loctite to hold them in and allow it to set for 24 hours

tighten nuts up to 108nm (80ft/lbs) torque if using MOLY lube.

however I'm using oil so I read on this forum that it should be 135nm (100ft/lbs)

BUT do it in increments of 20nm in the tightening order specified (middle outwards)

halfway through the torque values I've been told to slacken them all off then re-tighten to correct torque - apparently this ensures a correct seating of head gasket and nuts? Can anyone vouch for this?

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted
Through experiance Ive found if you hand tighten or more the studs into the block you will end up with small hair line cracks between the bolt hold and water jacket in almost every instance. (not instantly but over time)

I do them up till they nip up then loosen them off half a turn, with loctite the stud will stay in that position while you do the nut up. Leave the loctite 24 hours to do its job before doing the nuts up.

As rule I do this with every stud be it a main stud or head stud etc.

Also be sure to use the paste under the washers and under the nuts to ensure even tightening.

Leave the gasket as it is supplied.

In saying that about the studs in your application you may be fine hand tightening them but my oppinion remains the same about backing them off half a turn.

I was told this is a massive no no because you then have loctite between the threads rather then the stud onto the steel of the block when it is tight, Then when you do it up you can squash the loctite.

snozzle Mentor

snozzle

Posted
Posted

hmm pretty old thread but im pretty sure u should do up the studs hand tight so they are just barely bottoming out, theres no point loctiting something if it isnt already tight, it will not do its job!

the more i think about loctiting those studs into the block, the more i want to cringe! defeats the purpose of moly lube there thats for sure - ive done as per instructions and never had a problem

anthonymcgrath Collaborator

anthonymcgrath

Posted
Posted

hey guys thanks for the fast replies - I know its late/early over there heh! Its 11am here in the uk.

so loctite is a no no - thats cool with me thankyou! I'll just ensure the studs are finger tight in the block.

the only downside is the previous owner fitted the stud kit, so I dont have the instructions otherwise I'd take them as gospel. I've had to take my cylinder head off to have it rebuilt. I've got it back now and my head gasket so I'm ready to go.

the studs are in the block at the moment and some feel quite tightly nipped up. It seems to need a 5.5mm allen key and I hilariously dont have one to loosen them off. I think they should be okay tho?

I'm going to put the gasket then the cylinder head on then get onto the ARP nuts torquing them up

feel free to cut me up guys I just wanna do this right ...I've been posting on skylineowners.com too.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yep don't use loctite, just use the ARP lube.

Also for the headgasket I used ACL Hylomar spray to coat the gasket. Since it is an aerosol it's a piece of piss to cover the entire gasket easily.

142_18035.jpg

Edited by PM-R33
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

What brand of head gasket is it? Some don't require anything, but it doesn't hurt to put something on any way. Nissan actually recommend putting their Nissan gasket sealant onto their factory Nissan head gaskets but instead I used the Hylomar as it is easier to apply and from what I have heard one of the best things to use.

Personally no matter what gasket it is (maybe there is some exceptions), I usually apply a sealant for that extra help.

Edited by PM-R33
anthonymcgrath Collaborator

anthonymcgrath

Posted
Posted

its a cosworth 1.5mm head gasket for the nissan skyline. I didn't even know you could get them for it.

now I know about the head gasket sealant I'll definitely get some - hopefully shop near me will sell it :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Thanks for taking the time to post that ! If anything changes or happens please do update us. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR EV? The leaf of the Godzilla's!

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Somehow Vertimass/Oak Ridge National Labs has figured out a catalyst that can convert ethanol into C9-C10 hydrocarbons in basically a single step without ending up with a bunch of ethylene or similar waste products: https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2023224867A1/en I still don't think anything like this will keep us from needing to transition to EVs regardless along with all kinds of other electrification, but things like this will go a long way towards alleviating the problem of how to electrify things like planes. Renewable diesel is seemingly an easier problem as well, Chevron is already running refineries for the stuff and the primary feedstock is tallow and other waste fats from agriculture.
    • RB2533
      UniClutch

      By RB2533 · Posted

      Ok so I have sorted everything with my uniclutch and  i can offer up a bit of feedback and some things that might help others.    I found problems with factory damper line. Weird shit and had trouble with peddle adjustment    I used this https://au.gktech.com/products/r33-gts-t-skyline-braided-clutch-line?_pos=2&_sid=22b01b9b9&_ss=r Also when adjusting peddle leave a bit of play. You can get into a over stroke condition easy.. Make sure you can push the slave forward after adjusting to confirm fluid can return to master then you will need to pump it up heaps…..not sure why but that’s how it is.    last thing the splined adapter is machined perfectly. If your input shaft is old like mine was I would put a bit of valve grinding paste on it and stroke it like a 15 year old. Just to give it a tad more clearance and to better match it to the spline.    reason is on a near flat shift I have had situation where the peddle returns a millisecond after you lift from the clutch. No slip or anything but I reckon this is due to tolerance on the spline being way tighter than stock clutch and binding for a sec. I think this will go away but also my spline was old. Box is old so I guess I should have checked better. It’s a super neat fit.    it feels light as and holds awesome without any noise    
    • Duncan
      Rv37 400r questions

      By Duncan · Posted

      My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e
    • elir32
      Rv37 400r questions

      By elir32 · Posted

      Was that Australia Delivered Duncan? Does it have siren etc?   I used to have remote start on an old 32 two decades ago, it was a cool feature. I used to wake up early in winter for work. Start it and by the time i was out the door a few minutes later the engine was warmed up and the heaters had the car toasty. It was great.    I don’t mine the ambience lighting.  I drive a western star and it has footwell lights and ambient lighting and it’s great! From the pics of seen of them installed in a skyline I think it’s a nice touch 
×
×
  • Create New...