Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Probably a question for Sydneykid...

My 33 came across to the Aussie side with an aftermarket Chipped ECU. The car was labled a freak cause it constantly made 10-15kw more than any other car with the same mods.

A strange thing occured to me, the VCT with the "chipped ECU" wasn't being activated untill 5000-5500rpm. Also was running massive timing advance. I am wondering if there is any advantage from doing this???.....I can't see how there could be unless it has a different inlet cam. Anyway felt really cool, sort of had three power bands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24647-controlling-vct-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites

I thought the vct on thr RB25 was activated on startup and acted to improve low to midrange torque cutting out at some point in the higher rev range. My EMS computer is supposed to optimise performance by setting the optimum point to cut out the VCT to give the best output for both low and high revs

VCT on teh RB25 is activated in the lower/mid range

~2000rpm

Im running a Wolf v4, and while we were initially tunning it we had some time to fool around with the VCT on the dyno

We did a comparo by changing its activation point and basically the conclusion we came with is its best left where its designed for

We had it active "ala honda vtec style" higher up in the rev range and it wasnt as efficient in making power as it was lower down inthe lower to mid range

hope this helped

as whistla said it works best where its designed for.

i dont think the nissan engineer's put in that operating range because they can , they have spend a hellofa lot more R&D then any of us ever could..

if you want to help the VCT work more effectively try a adjustable exhaust cam wheel .

I was waiting to find this: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html or something similar until I posted:)

NVCS comes in just over 1000 rpm and cuts out at 4500rpm on RB25DET.

the best way I have heard of optimising NVCS is by doing two runs on a dyno, one with the NVCS switched on, one with the NVCS unplugged. Where the lines cross it the best point to switch off.

easy:D

Originally posted by Steve

the best way I have heard of optimising NVCS is by doing two runs on a dyno, one with the NVCS switched on, one with the NVCS unplugged.  Where the lines cross it the best point to switch off.

easy:D

This is exactly what i told my mechanic to do when programming/tunning the Wolf 3D. I believe that unless you change internals the optimum point is at the factory setting. This proved true, when tunning my car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This was a huge help.  We followed the steps,  although shifting into 2nd was actually into 3rd for us,  and 1st was into 2nd ( steps 9 and 11) .  The long flash was the 4th flash.  So shift solenoid A is possibly the culprit.  Is this inside the transmission itself? Or is it accessible by just front the pan? Or is it bolted to the outside of the transmission?  Thanos for your help everyone
    • Can you enlighten me on your best practice regarding these hoses? I don't wanna make the same mistake if you already got a better solution.
    • I have some silicon hoses already, for example engine to watercooler. But yeah, I get the sentiment. The lower intercooler silicon hose is drippy too, despite not being very old. Does anyone except Nismo make these same lines out of rubber? Long term I think they'd be the better replacement, especially since the car won't live as hard a life anymore as in the past nor be driven as often.
    • I know most issues are just age related. But for example the turbo oil drains, there is dash adapters for these and you can just make a braided teflon line for them and (probably) never have them leak again. Also not terribly expensive. Can you even get the factory hardlines from new? Or are they repairable if they break?
    • I know it'd be much much easier with the tool. I hope I can find one that won't take 3 weeks to get to me an isn't a "Asian models kit" that has tons of (to me) useless adapters for a load of cash.   It's a summer project/fun car. I do wanna enjoy it, without endless downtime over and over. So yeah I would even go and buy an engine crane + stand to save myself the trouble of hard to reach or unreachable places going bad later on. Would also be a good opportunity to put on a Fluidamper, renew the mains seals and stuff like that. I have some money on the side that I can use for that, what I wouldn't want to or be able to do is let everything be done by a shop or have my engine completely rebuild right now. I intend to do most of the "doable" jobs myself. Pulling an engine can't be that hard, can it?
×
×
  • Create New...