Jump to content
SAU Community

Haltech Interceptor On Rb25det

Ninja_09

By Ninja_09,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone!!!

I've just signed up on the site so I'm not sure what am doing and if I'm in the right section.

I had the R33 S-II for about a year and got an Interceptor fitted. Eve since I had it I have issues with ignitions around 3.5 - 4K RPM.

being through 3 different tuners and spent a fortune but same story.

Just wondering if anyone’s successfully done this before?

the car is converted to Manual and got a high flowed turbo , greddy ele. boost controller

Thanks in advance !!! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246615-haltech-interceptor-on-rb25det/
Share on other sites
Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
try give my tuner a ring, he's in WA and will point you in the right direction. he is a haltech guru

Aaron

in tune performance (bibra Lake)

(08)94346608

Eric

Thanks Eric... Will try first thing tomorrow !!!

I was thinking if this is useless, then get Nistune done. Has anyone done Nistune on a R33 series 2 before. because ignition/ coil packs are different in series I and series II ???

Any ideas pls????

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

i don't think nistune do a board for the R33, S1 or S2. also having the ignitors in the coils doesn't make a difference to the ecu. you've converted to manual, there are better options for engine management out there.

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i don't think nistune do a board for the R33, S1 or S2. also having the ignitors in the coils doesn't make a difference to the ecu. you've converted to manual, there are better options for engine management out there.

Thanks for the reply mate !! I know there are few different options out there but it all comes down to the cost of goods and installation then of course tuning. Nistune works out cheap even if I did it using a RB20 ECU, but the question is does this setup work on R33 S-II. I heard it works fine on series I cars coz the ignition is same in RB20 and RB25 series I.

Other option would be to find a 2nd hand PFC…

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

shouldn't be a problem, just have to check all the pinouts and match them up. all that comes from the ecu is the ignition signal, in 32's an S1 33's it goes to an ignitor pack which then fires the coils, in the S2 the signal goes straight to the coil which has a built in ignitor. the signal is the same from the ecu, just handled differently at the engine side of things.

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
shouldn't be a problem, just have to check all the pinouts and match them up. all that comes from the ecu is the ignition signal, in 32's an S1 33's it goes to an ignitor pack which then fires the coils, in the S2 the signal goes straight to the coil which has a built in ignitor. the signal is the same from the ecu, just handled differently at the engine side of things.

mmmmm that explains a lot and makes sence. !!!! :ninja:

Had a chat to Andrew from Hyperdrive today and also Sam from Dr Drift who's got a daughter board for R33 ECU ($1100). So I guess I can either use RB20 ecu and Greddy MSS(for VCT) to do Nistune or get Sam to install the daughter board onR33 ecu and make it tuneable. I'm wating to hear back from Andrew coz after all he the tuner. I'm paying for not consulting a / the tuner and buying an Interceptor which cannot be properly tuned on a R33. I spoke to Aaron from In Tune today, he's willing to check the wiring and do few test ot see what's wrong but I think it's best to just remove the Interceptor and get a fully functional and well tuneable ECU rather than a piggyback..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...