Jump to content
SAU Community

How To Prep For Drags In My Gtr?.....im I 1st Timer...


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

limiter launch ftw but still use the handbrake, ive seen a few breakages from just dropping clutch, when using the handbrake u take any 'slack' out of your driveline, also helps u come onto boost before launching, so as said before line up, pull on handbrake keeping hand on the handbrake slowly rev and release clutch till you feel it start to bite, then foot flat drop handbrake n clutch!!

Cheers for all the tips.

For my 265 is 22psi all round a good starting point?.....i done a few launches, at 4000 i get huge bog...6000-7000rpm launches seem just right though and it bites and im away

also i have some alreasy stiff coilover suspension...its damper adj and the damper setting is around half way...should i adjust for the drags?

Is it bad to have the accelerator floored the whole time? ie not taking your foot off during gear shifts?...

....one thing id like to say....after a few launches i could really smell my clutch...is this normal?

Thanks to all!...im gnna practise Handbrake techniques tommorow:)

I'd be interested in tips for my r33 gtst also gonna be a first timer at WSID next month. I know if i do rev limiter launches i am gonna fire the tyres. 5000 rpm be alrght with the hand brake ??

I like Martin Donnon's list (happy 40th btw Martin) except for the "sit on the limiter for five seconds" one. What a steaming pile of turd. Limiter launches don't need a whole five seconds on it. WTF?!

I like Martin Donnon's list (happy 40th btw Martin) except for the "sit on the limiter for five seconds" one. What a steaming pile of turd. Limiter launches don't need a whole five seconds on it. WTF?!

Did you not know that he sells RB oil pumps ?

2 seconds or 3 'pops' whichever comes 1st for me...best of 1.41 on radials tells me my method works.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Did you not know that he sells RB oil pumps ?

LOL! That explains it then.

2 seconds or 3 'pops' whichever comes 1st for me...best of 1.41 on radials tells me my method works.

Listen to this man. He knows stuff.

Come on HPI - its the publication everyone needs to read and accept as gospel because all we are here are internet experts

Just like magazine experts...

I qualify for both categories so tell me what sort of a fcukwit I am?!!?!?

LOL!

Havent read the thread but stocko suspension is a good idea, stiff coilovers arnt going to be doing you any favours

not really...but are stockers are adequate.

ive tried...stock...revalved stock (drag set-up 90/10's in the front and 60/40's in the rear) and HKS circuit coilovers...what worked the best?

The HKS items.

Mark Jacobsen ran KYB circuit coilovers all the way up to low 8's and 60'd in the low 1.3's with them on radials...try doing that on stockers.

Edited by DiRTgarage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have copied the images in the original post from photobucket to the SAU servers to make sure they stay available.
    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
×
×
  • Create New...