Jump to content
SAU Community

Please give advice, i wanted to buy a GT-t R34...

[Tommy_R34]
 Share

Recommended Posts

[Tommy_R34] Rookie

[Tommy_R34]

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys, i wanted to buy this Skyline GT-t R34 but i don't know if it's worth the prices coz i don't really know how much is in the market so please help me out, i'll describe it to you guys, here we go : Nissan Skyline R34 GT-t late 98 Manual, 6 cylinder Turbo, Black, 54000kms, Nismo body kits, GREDDY Trust front mount intercooler, Blitz BOV, Blitz boost controller SBC ID2 , Kenwood VCD TV with TV Turner, Blitz air filter, Blitz turbo timer, Blitz Gauge, Momo Steering wheels, Flash Point Alarm, Turbo Back Exhaust, 6 months rego and selling for $34,000.... it has backfire and then a little bit smoke came out but when the car is park and put on neutral i revs up and have no smoke, is it okay or there is something wrong? please give me your advice if this price is good for this car and it looks really much like the photo i attached.......many thanx.....

Parag0n Mentor

Parag0n

Posted
Posted

HI Tommy,

That price is pretty decent for a R34 GT-T and it has quite a few aftermarket items, maybe you should take it in for a service and get the misfires sorted out ?

Where does the smoke come out ? the exhaust ? the engine ?

franks Veteran

franks

Posted
Posted

this is a really good price!

black smoke coming out of an exhaust is not normal, its overfueling. with my stock ecu in my 34gtt i never had black smoke coming out of it on wide open throttle.

accident damage. hrm..its very rare to find a car (especially an import) without accident damage.

sure its nice to have a car that hasn't been in one, but as long as the chassis is straight, panels can always be fixed/replaced. you should be worrying about the quality of the repair more than anything.

ac1d3o3 Enthusiast

ac1d3o3

Posted
Posted

yeah got a skyline inspected, had a look at it. looked fine to me but they came up with heaps of stuff. theyre really thorough and they give you their opinion about the car. they told me that it wasnt worth buying the car.

probably saved me heaps in the long run.

pentae Mentor

pentae

Posted
Posted

Take it to an a mechanic who mainly does performance cars and imports. Tell him you are interested in buying an r34 and your intentions are to take the vehicle to him for servicing/performance mods.. and could he kindly check that it doesnt have anything wrong with it.

He may do the service for close to nothing to bag you as a future customer.

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by pentae

Take it to an a mechanic who mainly does performance cars and imports. Tell him you are interested in buying an r34 and your intentions are to take the vehicle to him for servicing/performance mods.. and could he kindly check that it doesnt have anything wrong with it.

He may do the service for close to nothing to bag you as a future customer.

Thats probably the best piece of advice ever... well done mate :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Pac
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Pac · Posted

      Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • dbm7
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By dbm7 · Posted

      It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...