Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd say the tuner would be risking it... might be good for the street but what if something happens on the dyno for it to reset/ reengage or anything like that...

As on the dyno it will want to put torque to the front wheels as it thinks the back end is completely "slipping" out at over 150km/h, thats why my tuner will only put my car on without the front shaft to be sure.

  • 2 weeks later...

Where are you reading these faults from? the attessa computer in the rear of the car has its own little L.E.D on the unit that flashes when there are faults, it wont flash on the cluster like a RWD skyline does, it will only turn the 4WD light on which is basicly telling you to look in the boot at the module and count the flashes there. The series of flashes you are talking about wont output from the unit in the boot. If your reading them from the cluster then its 77 for rear heated oxygen sensor circuit and 43 is Throttle Position Sensor but i dont know what its doing if your reading the flashes from the unit in the boot.

Where are you reading these faults from? the attessa computer in the rear of the car has its own little L.E.D on the unit that flashes when there are faults, it wont flash on the cluster like a RWD skyline does, it will only turn the 4WD light on which is basicly telling you to look in the boot at the module and count the flashes there. The series of flashes you are talking about wont output from the unit in the boot. If your reading them from the cluster then its 77 for rear heated oxygen sensor circuit and 43 is Throttle Position Sensor but i dont know what its doing if your reading the flashes from the unit in the boot.

Reading form the ECU in the boot mate, on the very odd acasion the AWD will not come on, or will come on a while after start up, it will buzz and flash likes its priming up then just stay on. its got me stupmed.

p.s i recoreded these codes about 10 times jsut to be sure i was reading them correct, its pain staking.

Your lucky i work for Nissan and had time to look today :thumbsup: . This is the error codes for ALL r33's with 4WD so its legit and i found it in some old book which has more info than the net.

43 = ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

77 = ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit

It obiously points to a break somewhere in your circuit so i would check all fuses/relays then conectors then earths and lastly wires or maybe the interal wiring is worn in a moduel/motor just check everying.

i had a problem with my car idling at 1500rpm and my 4WD light came on and my ATTESA ECU flashed 75 for TPS, when ever i used anything electrical and that includes my brake light or headlight or wipers etc etc and i was stumped for 2 years and spent ($6000 COST PRICE!! probably $12000 retail) on work just think i might fix it one day changing things and found the other day it was a earth cable from the starter motor to body just under the black fuse box in the engine bay, it needed a bit of sand paper and tightening. Most likley wiring..........

Edited by central coast person

Your lucky i work for Nissan and had time to look today :thumbsup: . This is the error codes for ALL r33's with 4WD so its legit and i found it in some old book which has more info than the net.

43 = ABS actuator motor , motor relay and circuit

77 = ET-S/ABS control unit ground and circuit

It obiously points to a break somewhere in your circuit so i would check all fuses/relays then conectors then earths and lastly wires or maybe the interal wiring is worn in a moduel/motor just check everying.

i had a problem with my car idling at 1500rpm and my 4WD light came on and my ATTESA ECU flashed 75 for TPS, when ever i used anything electrical and that includes my brake light or headlight or wipers etc etc and i was stumped for 2 years and spent ($6000 COST PRICE!! probably $12000 retail) on work just think i might fix it one day changing things and found the other day it was a earth cable from the starter motor to body just under the black fuse box in the engine bay, it needed a bit of sand paper and tightening. Most likley wiring..........

haha mate thanks for taking time to find that out, aswome info, i thoguht it was my Main ABS so i had that changed ages ago, lucky i got a cheap one, ive taken it to a auto elec, i think i need a specilist nissan auto electrition. any ideas?

haha mate thanks for taking time to find that out, aswome info, i thoguht it was my Main ABS so i had that changed ages ago, lucky i got a cheap one, ive taken it to a auto elec, i think i need a specilist nissan auto electrition. any ideas?

Where are you located?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...