Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at building up my car early next year , currently i have around 190kw from fmic , dual stage boost switch , 3 stage heavy duty clutch , bosch 040 pump ,running 10psi , anyway i recently bought a power fc and since then getting around 300kw has been on the cards, and so far i reckon i will need new turbo i think its the hks one on just jap comes with oil lines etc etc , a new oil pump , bigger injectors , maybe twin 040 pumps??? forged pistons and new afm all the work will be done in adelaide either engine on its own or ill send the whole car down , im thinking of sending it to morpowa seeing as they originaly built the car to where it is now before i bought it. so basically what im asking is , have i missed anything??? and will the standard gearbox and diff hold up to the extra power??? im looking at spending no more than 15k any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246878-tell-me-what-you-think/
Share on other sites

to reliably get 300rwkw you will need a rebuild, a bigger turbo is a must (although you did not mention what you have, with 190rwkw i assume its not standard), oil pump will be fine but may need upgrading depending on what you want to do with the car, bigger injectors, i think a z32 afm will do the job, standard gear box will be fine depending on usage.

Try looking in the rb25 dyno section, that will show you what people have to achieve the power you want.

Also what is a 3 stage heavy duty clutch?

For 300rwkw my build would be as follows.

Decent front mount cooler Blitz or the like.

HKS 3037 Turbo kit @ 20ish psi

lower comp to around 8.5

Decent EBC

Nismo injectors 555's will do the job (740's leave more headroom)

Rebuild bottom end with Forges etc

Z32 AFM

Power FC

Not sure about the 040 but a Nismo Pump will do the job nicely

Gearbox will be fine for street use

Exedy Ceramic clutch

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

my 2c

buy a real GT3076 or HKS version if you are feeling the need, 550cc injectors, Z32 afm and run it around 270-280rwkw with good tuning on the standard bottom end will be enough to keep you going for a while. this should save you a pile of cash in the short term.

gradually assemble the parts for a forged bottom end if you are feeling the need.

+1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don’t really have any ideas how to set the timing on the CAS 😂, sounds like the top, sounds like it maybe misfiring as well as ticking,  got the box sorted 😌, must of been a air bubble on the clutch side
    • Use a 2' length of hose (that's 2 foot, not 2 inches) as a stethoscope to localise the source of the ticking. From cam covers? From exhaust or turbo manifold gasket? From injectors? From lower down in the engine? Etc. Use a timing light to set the timing. Put Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the box. It's not the very best thing for the box, but it will take a box that refuses to engage a gear with other oil, and make it engage a gear. I had to put it in when I installed the R33 box I have in my car. It would not select ANY gear when running. Smurf jizz made it work. That was >10 years ago and I still use it. I'm stuck with it now. Failing that - rebuild the box.
    • Well done Duncan. The fuel tank bulkhead lid is also in great condition (some of mine were stuffed). These are now out of production and good ones like that are becoming hard to come by.
    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
×
×
  • Create New...