Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I guess with seperate inlets you could use the second stage for different oil but most I've come accross use it as a powersteering oil cooler as Gts30t has done. I might just try to put a cooler in the return line and see how that goes.

I only really did it to see if it could've been done and I had some spare time at work and a spare pump to play with.

Thanks for the positive comments as it's been a fir bit of time put into it of late. I'll try get some pics up of the finished engine bay and interior shortly.

Not much left to do now. Still waiting on a couple of small items to arrive but almost done to a point where we can start and tune it. Some nomex kevlar -16 hose is all I need to finish plumbing the dry sump. Tried everywhere today for some but looks like i'll be ordering it in on monday.

New OMP race seat arrived and have borrowed another Sparco for the passenger side till i can afford the other OMP to match. Also battery isolater mounted up in the center console, battery all boxed and clamped in place on the back passenger floor where the rear seats used to be. Isolator also has the remote pull cable to isolate the battery from outside.

Finished everything in the engine bay now except for the breather line from the oil pump header tank to the breather/catch tank, Line from pump to header tank (-16), some silicone hose to mount the air filters and box them somehow to keep the heat out. There's a couple of grand worth of speedflow fittings in there now, an ARC coolant airation kit; peterson breather tank Magnafuel reg and a heap of other goodies since the last pics.

Also spent today finishing the fuel system. Painted the inside of the boot last night and fitted everything today. I thought the bulk head fittings through the floor were nicer than just a hole and I'm happy enough with the way it turned out. Carter Lift pump and SX performance 1000hp spec pump should be adiquate at this point i think.

Hopefully, with some luck, next week I should have some dyno results to post up. Until then here's some progress pics.

DSC00631.jpg

DSC00640.jpg

DSC00633.jpg

DSC00635.jpg

looking great mate will hopefully see you at a track in the not to distant future. Good luck with the tune and everything else.

You have to love some of the high quality GTR circuit cars in the build at the moment on SAU. Looks to me like GTR's should be dominating a lot of tracks around the country in the not to distant future :down:

dazmo Posted Today, 12:54 AM

looking great mate will hopefully see you at a track in the not to distant future. Good luck with the tune and everything else.

You have to love some of the high quality GTR circuit cars in the build at the moment on SAU. Looks to me like GTR's should be dominating a lot of tracks around the country in the not to distant future

eddieneedsboost Posted Today, 12:34 AM

Awesome build mate. Looking forward to the finished product

Any idea how much the car weighs now?

Yeah definatly want to come down to QR and have a play and meet some of you guys

Not sure what it's gonna weigh yet. It was 1460 as pretty standard road car but I have made a couple of attempts to make it lighter but with the cage and extra stuff that i've put in I'll be happy if it isn't heavier than that now.....for the moment.

Had a drama trying to tighten the fuel fittings onto the underside of the boot floor due to the tank and cradle get in the way. So had a think and came up with cutting a hole and making a plate to go over it out of alli. This way i can tighten all the fittings from inside the boot, then bolt the plate back down to the floor. Hour Later I'd made this. Problem solved. Looks a bit nicer to. Shiney and stuff.

DSC00652.jpg

Nice mod on the fuel lines there the bulk head fittings are definatly the way to go. looks really neat so will definatly match the rest of the car and a good idea to be able to get to everything from in the boot. I know what you mean with the limited space with the tank and subframe had the same drama on the R32 that i built. Lucky the R33 has a litle more room under the boot floor with the tank mounted further forward. will post up an update on my build in the next day or so have been busy sorting thru some issues. When you get down this way shoot me a pm would be keen to meet up for a track day.

dazmo Posted Yesterday, 10:51 PM

When you get down this way shoot me a pm would be keen to meet up for a track day.

Yeah definatly will. Thanks.

SABBAi Posted Yesterday, 10:58 PM

It's looking great. I love the radiator in the support panel. Very neat.

Although i'd love to take the credit for it's design, it's been almost completely plagiarisied from a well known r32 from the Berry/Newman stable. :D

Another little bit of alloy plate found it's way into the dash aswell over the weekend. Just a defi advance 52mm oil temp and the controll unit in there at this point. There's an oil presure guage under the cluster shroud thats covering the factory oil presure gauge to. The 52 mm is a nice fit there and lets you still see the tac and stock temp guage. Obvoiusly there are still 2 holes to fill but will fill them when I have some more cash. probably exhaust and water temp.

Also left a tab out the side to valcro the d-jetro hand controller to.

DSC00625.jpg

Edited by Evocoop

Hey mate if you are going to spend cash on more guages I would highly recomend the ruzic engineering EMPRO2 engine monitor. Paul Ruzic (mountain runner) designed and builds these units they have been designed primarily for track cars as a lower price alternative to the motec aim dash's with all the same functions. These are a great unit very reasonably priced will monitor everything that you will need and keep everything nice and neat so no need for excessive number of guages. I will post up some pics of the one fitted to my car tomorrow. I cant recomend these units highly enough one of the best value for money mods for a track car. I am sure you can find some info on these if you use the search function but if you are interested shoot me a pm and i will send thru his contact details.

Yes Darren for sure i'd be interested. I was looking into the Aim and haltec stuff earlier and it was going to cost mega dollars to make it work as a stand alown unit as i wasn't yet ready to let go of the trusty Power FC. I searched a little deeper but gave up and just bought a defi controller and a couple of important guages to get me started and thought it'd be something to look into later as my main goal of late is to get this thing ready for a tarmac rally here in townsville in 4 weeks time. If you could pm me some info that would be appreicated. Probably can't act on it right now but definatly in the nearish future.

Andrew sorry to make you faint but nah no amp just 2 little speakers in the bottom of the doors. But rest assured that will all come out when we get a little more serious about things.

I think I had the worlds biggest sigh of relief this afternoon. The Skyline started first turn, settled to a nice idle and was sitting at 4bar of oil pressure at idle. No leaks. No dramas. Early days yet but at least everything is looking good at the moment. We called it a day and backed it up on the dyno to give it a run in tune tomorrow morning. Sounded really crisp with a slight cam lump and a throaty exhaust note from my dodgied up cut and shut 87mm with new center muffler.

DSC00655-1.jpg

Just a little update on the progress. We stuck a run in tune in it on the dyno saturday and had no problems. All was good. After a couple of hours of tuning and just basicly running it on the rollers we ramped it a few times with only actuator pressure of 12 pound and made 302. something kwatw.

We took it out for a sunday drive and had a drama of which I have never encounted and am completely out of my depth with.

Crusing along at 95 or so in 5th it has 2 sudden missfires than ran ok for a second then stopped completely. I pulled over and the ECU has no power. I check the fuse in the engine bay and it has blown. I take the one out of the electric windows and it pops that one befor even lighting up the hand controller. After checking everything for anything obvious I steal the ABS fuse and tried it with the hand controller un pluged and pops another one. I've run outta fuses so I call a tow truck.

As I'm completely hopeless with anything electrical does anyone have any ideas? Help Please

im no expert, but i assume it has a short circuit causing it to instantly blow fuses. Will direct a mate to this thread and he might be able to offer some places to check.

Yeah mate, that is correct. You have a short circuit somewhere. Check the wiring under the dash for any bare wires. If it only happens when you turn the IGN on to POWER (just before crank) , then check all the big stuff under the dash. If it's blowing when you turn on to ACC then it could be something like fuel pump, stereo, blah blah anything really.

Disconnect the ECU and turn the IGN on, it will rule out the fuel system. If the fuse stays alive, you know where to start looking. If it still dies, keep looking. Sorry, that's all the advice I can give without seeing the car or having more information.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...