Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have seen oil surge in my R33GTS25t, I have 225/60x16s, DBA slotted rotors with EBC greenstuff. On hard stop from 60-70 kph with a full stop (ABS active) the oil light will flash for less than a second as the car stops!!!!

Better baffles or accusump are the only things that will really fix it, I drive round the problem at present but would like a cheap effective fix.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Most good speed shops should stock them. There are numerous places in Sydney.

From an independent US motorsport supplier...

The best and original coolers for motorsport, fitted as original equipment by most leading manufacturers, McLaren, Penske, Lotus etc.

Just bought one:) told me dimensions are 300 x 250 so not as huge as they look in the photos, besides a bit of extra oil never hurt anyone.

they use 3/4" banjo fittings (supplied) and the coolers are made by Serck;)

the guy told me that they are the same one Nismo use for their N1 models

Steve, Let me know how it goes, I plan on getting an oil cooler soon.

If you fit a fast acting oil pressure gauge you'll see that the RB25's suffer from oil surge just like the RB26's.

I think Sydneykid can modify the exisiting sump for extra capacity etc.

Paul, shall do, big cooler means extra oil volume too, cant hurt.

Brendan, definately will be fitting thermostat and remote filter, just need to fine some:) I am looking for a remote filter with thermostat, rather than inline sererate thermostat, but it is proving rather illusive. got quoted $20 per foot for braided 1/2" line from OG speed shop - going to have a look tomorrow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...