Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah i dont sorry, didnt take any notice, i do know the cracking rims are made in china,

not that helps much tho LOL!

i know ROH used to make them but lost the contract to someone cheaper. not sure who tho.

I used to work at ROH. they were pretty dodgy. I was on the paint line. powder coating and painting that shitty shadow chrome. Which is only silver over gloss black powder. Cheap as.

If you look on the back on wheels such as Adrenalins, Drift R's etc you will see holes in the back of the spokes. Some large some small. Not machined properly. They couldn't fix it so they just went with it.

howdy, im looking at purchasing a r32 4door with a 25Neo in it. its gotta go through regency just wondering if itl be engineerable on stock brakes with just a test or whether il have to go to r34 standard sized brakes (or bigger)? i assume someone would have done this before and im asking here as i dont have the time to mess around with forms. cheers

head down to service sa or whatever they call themselves these days, and get an application to modify, fill it out, send it in and itll tell you everything you need to get done.

yeah i printed one off just i dont own the car yet, wanna see how difficult itl be to clear before i buy it, but dont wanna take too long doing it as i dont want it to be snatched up, was just hoping i could get a quick answer here but i better send away the form anyway. cheers for your help.

howdy, im looking at purchasing a r32 4door with a 25Neo in it. its gotta go through regency just wondering if itl be engineerable on stock brakes with just a test or whether il have to go to r34 standard sized brakes (or bigger)? i assume someone would have done this before and im asking here as i dont have the time to mess around with forms. cheers

this is a tough question to put a answer to...ummm

i would have thought that as long as you pass the regency brake test then it should be fine....so if your stock brakes are damn good then or if not then upgrade to 33 brakes and they are apparently easy to do hence that might be the go then

ok, thanks..

cheers for everyone who has helped me.

im happier if i stay on the right side of the law, (not that i hate modifying cars)

but when your young and look even younger it seems the cops pul you over a tad more.

any defects latly?

yeah, sunday night down the bay dropping a mate off defect station on colley tce.

Got done 4 too dark a tint 18% on drivers and 17% on the rears and also too loud exaust 104Db at 3300RPM GAY SHIT!

its pretty common dude. most have all the tools necessary to make your night very unpleasant.

yea but some of tools dont know how to use them properly ive seen then them shove the noise meter right inside the mufflers all ya can do is shake ya head

howdy, im looking at purchasing a r32 4door with a 25Neo in it. its gotta go through regency just wondering if itl be engineerable on stock brakes with just a test or whether il have to go to r34 standard sized brakes (or bigger)? i assume someone would have done this before and im asking here as i dont have the time to mess around with forms. cheers
what year is it?

i think one of the minimums for an approved engine conversion is the same size brakes as found on the donor car.

yeah i printed one off just i dont own the car yet, wanna see how difficult itl be to clear before i buy it, but dont wanna take too long doing it as i dont want it to be snatched up, was just hoping i could get a quick answer here but i better send away the form anyway. cheers for your help.

i put my 32 4dr throught regency a while ago and they told me the brakes had to be the same size as the donor car as dave said. Also you have to get an exhaust emmissions test which will cost you abot 100. Then its the usual shit as per normal inspection. I had a 33 25 tho but i think it should be the same.

Father in-law got done during the week on his bike for:

To loud, LED number plate lights, non-compliance indicators, handle bars over 900mm and was also fined for a non ADR approved helmet because the 5 ticks on the sticker were no longer red, they were worn.

Police also questioned him as to which motor cycle gang he was with. He replied with a swift " It's called 'The cool kids motorbike gang' and sorry, but your not allowed".

Officer then took his helmet and stuck the defect sticker on his headlight and left him sitting there in the pouring rain. He is now fighting the fine for the helmet and is trying to find it but the officer hasn't logged it yet and its supposedly 'missing'

its pretty common dude. most have all the tools necessary to make your night very unpleasant.

hey dave, remember when my car blew 54Db LOL

that cop had the Db meter about 5cm away from my zorst, and it messed up the reading :rofl:

hey dave, remember when my car blew 54Db LOL

that cop had the Db meter about 5cm away from my zorst, and it messed up the reading :)

ahaha, that night was lol worthy. we got pretty good angle eh.

Just had a run in with the same Officer that defected me earlier this year... he popped out of a sidestreet about 20 metres behind me as I was waiting at the lights to turn right and he went up right behind me and what do you know - pulls me over shortly after for an "RBT" - atleast this time he didnt ask to pop the bonnet straight away but actually breath tested me first unlike last time didnt breath test at all just went straight for the bonnet. So yeah, bonnet popped he went straight for the standard solenoid which is located at the standard position with the standard lines... had a good long look at it and gave the line coming out of it a wiggle and that was it, nothing to defect so off he goes. Thats enough excitement for me for today! lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...