Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why would it cost more? Do you know what engineering means? A qualified engineer just looks at the relevant ADRs and make sure that the work has been completed in a saftisfactory way so that it is structurally sound and safe. If it meets all of these conditions and nothing needs to be done you are just paying for a few hours of research and inspection nothing more hence the low cost.

Rolls is correct. Your paying for engineer to come out, tick that its road worthy and that is it lol. If its not done properlly thats when he may get expensive. We did lots and lots of them when I worked at Sinergy Motorsports.

When Rory certified my brake bias in my 1600, there was a fee involved for the use of AIR to test the even braking of the car front and rear. It was something like $80-$100 for use of the venue ... was a few years ago. In total I paid something like $150-$200.

when i built my ac cobra replica between rory and doug potts it cost me about 2 g in reports including hire of air for lane change test and braking test . and when it went thru regency to get ticked off and registerd regency still argued over some of the stuff sighned off by the engineers and i had to go back for further reports . the whole industry is a sham lol .

My car just went through today for an engine swap and state rego transfer inspection (same as a defect basically). They picked me up for lack of child seat restraint anchors, need to get 3 of them installed. There is a hole in the drivers seat where the frame comes through, need to stitch this up. Spoiler had been removed so I had no eye level brake light. Need near wheel bearings for the rear as there was almost a centre meter of movement sideways, both front upper control arm bushes were fairly well worn as well.

Not really that fussed, wheel bearings and bushes are something I would have done myself as they are pretty damn important. Child seat restraints is annoying as I will never ever use them, I guess ADRs are ADRs though, same goes for the hole in the seat, don't really know how this could ever hurt anyone, its not even uncomfortable. The brake light is fair enough though, I didn't realise that the spoiler had one in it.

They didn't say anything about my engine swap, mods in the engine bay or chopped up inner wheel guards so I'm fairly happy as all of that stuff would be a pain in the ass to get around and fix.

I picked up a pair of them child restraints anchors at Nisswreck for $20($10 each), just the anchor and the bolt - thats all I needed because I've already had the hole and thread in the parcel shelf for them from compliance.

Or if you need the whole child restraint kit its something around $95 at Singery Motorsport... he seemed "iffy" on the pricing saying like yeah its about $90 then later its like about $95 yadida, said he was going to order it in will get back to me in a couple days when they arrive but never got back to me about it!

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

the hole in the seat is in case something electrical shorts out in the car, or it gets hit by lightning (it does happen). wouldn't wanna be touching an exposed piece of metal in that instance haha.

i could be thinking wrong, i am pretty knackered after all.

but uh, doesnt lightning need a route to ground?

im fairly sure rubber (tyres) prevent this from happening.

correct me if im wrong though.

Yes but lightening can jump from a cloud to the ground so Im sure it can jump from a car to the ground. However lightening takes the path of least resistance, the metal in your car has far less resistance than your body so you wouldn't have any current travel though you. Once again the chassis is ground in your car so even if something shorted to the chassis it would just flatten your battery, you couldn't receive a shock from it.

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into?

I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

Drill 1 big hole for the bolt to go through and you also need to pot rivet the actually metal bracket to the car as well.

So bolt through, metal bracket,rear parcel shelf and then nut on the bottom.

Pot rivet the metal bracket to the rear parcel shelf.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I used this https://osgiken.com.au/product/os-giken-os-250r-lsd-gear-oil-80w250-1-litre/   shut my nismo 1.5 pro up by heaps…. Not silent though. Gives the car character and personality. It ain’t a carolla. If you want silent, put a quaife in it.
    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
×
×
  • Create New...