Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry for double post wouldnt let me edit :l

also with the Nistune will regency defect u for this?

Highly Highly unlikely. For them to be able to tell theyd not only have to remove kick panel and check ecu, they'd have to disassemble the ECU

Very unlikely they would do this

-D

Has anyone been defected for the privacy glass on the stageas? i kno they come like that but just saying for a cops point of veiw wont they just see it as extremly dark tint and send u to regency for it?

when an officer sent me to Regency for my exhaust, he added the factory rear privacy glass to the list, despite me showing him the sticker on the glass saying it was UV privacy glass. The inspector at Regency laughed at the officer and ticked it off as fine - so I wouldn't stress too much. I suspect whilst a cop might add to an existing defect, they're not going to go out of their way to single you out just for the glass. (Not to say they won't use it as an indicator to look around the car for as many things as they can to add to the list)

super upset right now, i got some non hid headlamps (cheers luke) but got to pop em in and the plugs dont line up and there different arrggg...i have the auto leveling but regency said the hid's need to be auto cleaning is this true? and are they? i dont think they are cos theres no connections for squirters....

if i was to keep the original light (my hids) and changed the globs round for like a duller bulb or something is there a way i can pass without rewiring my whole headlight set up?

just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

f598h4.jpg

Edited by Volk34
just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

f598h4.jpg

Doesn't work like that mate

can someone enlighten me as to whether Regency allow aftermarket swaybars?

i dont think regency allow for much aftermarket items.....specially if they are adjustables mate....my bet is better be safe then sorry :thumbsup:

just spoke to a nismo dude in vic, he says that if i take out the silver box of magic tricks and plug in everything else everything should work fine. ie not be crazy bright....APPARENTLY.

has anyone done this, disconnected the hid box and everything works fine like a normal light?

As above, this really won't work - other bulbs won't fit in the housing, and the only plug you'll have left is from the HID ballast (which you're planning to disconnect).

Seriously - there are better ways. See if you can't pick up some non-xenon or converted compliance lights for passing inspection.

Alternatively, I think it took all of maybe an hour or two to make it so I can temporarily convert my headlights over to regular non-HID bulbs specifically for the purposes of passing Regency. This was done using a cheap ($20) foglight wiring kit (it included a relay, fuse mount and long wiring) and some cut-back bulbs in the standard mounting.

To go into more details - the relay/fuse were mounted into the standard under-bonnet fuse box, and right trigger from the standard headlight switch was wired into the relay for the trigger. Wiring from this was then run in two sets to the headlights themselves. Using extensive cable-ties and black wire-loom stuff to keep it all factory looking - you wouldn't really even know it's been done, and I like that.

For the headlight housings themselves, I used a dremel to put in make tiny hole barely big enough to run the wiring in to to the bulbs, and then spade terminals to plug into the bulbs. The bulbs themselves were (I *think* - it's been a while) H7's that had their bases slightly cut back to fit into the standard D2R mounting points.

The beauty of this setup is, all it takes is taking the HID fuse out of the fuse box, putting it into the new fuse spot, then swapping the bulbs over to the cut-down H7's if I ever need to pass through Regency again (maybe 5 minutes work).

I will note, after having driven the car with these bulbs (just for a test run the night before inspection), whilst the bulb sits in the reflector housing at the right place, the lighting is terrible - I honestly feel sorry for anyone who's stuck with compliance xenon ex-HID headlights after getting used to the 'real thing'.

Good luck with it.

can someone enlighten me as to whether Regency allow aftermarket swaybars?

They should be fine if there not rose jointed, you can have aftermarket springs so sway bars should be fine. Paint them black to make them look standard.

They should be fine if there not rose jointed, you can have aftermarket springs so sway bars should be fine. Paint them black to make them look standard.
i dont think regency allow for much aftermarket items.....specially if they are adjustables mate....my bet is better be safe then sorry :)

+1

Best be safe than sorry. I'd rather hear it "will" pass, than it "should" pass. :thumbsup:

bunch of wussies :thumbsup:

as long as theyre not rose jointed and are single piece (no welding, whiteline, selbys) they will pass.

mine are welded on the ends (kts) and the inspector had a talk to me about it and said that they should be removed because he doesnt have an engineers cert saying the welds were up to standard etc... and still passed me.

last time i went through they were on there and had no problems at all.

As above, this really won't work - other bulbs won't fit in the housing, and the only plug you'll have left is from the HID ballast (which you're planning to disconnect).

Seriously - there are better ways. See if you can't pick up some non-xenon or converted compliance lights for passing inspection.

Alternatively, I think it took all of maybe an hour or two to make it so I can temporarily convert my headlights over to regular non-HID bulbs specifically for the purposes of passing Regency. This was done using a cheap ($20) foglight wiring kit (it included a relay, fuse mount and long wiring) and some cut-back bulbs in the standard mounting.

To go into more details - the relay/fuse were mounted into the standard under-bonnet fuse box, and right trigger from the standard headlight switch was wired into the relay for the trigger. Wiring from this was then run in two sets to the headlights themselves. Using extensive cable-ties and black wire-loom stuff to keep it all factory looking - you wouldn't really even know it's been done, and I like that.

For the headlight housings themselves, I used a dremel to put in make tiny hole barely big enough to run the wiring in to to the bulbs, and then spade terminals to plug into the bulbs. The bulbs themselves were (I *think* - it's been a while) H7's that had their bases slightly cut back to fit into the standard D2R mounting points.

The beauty of this setup is, all it takes is taking the HID fuse out of the fuse box, putting it into the new fuse spot, then swapping the bulbs over to the cut-down H7's if I ever need to pass through Regency again (maybe 5 minutes work).

I will note, after having driven the car with these bulbs (just for a test run the night before inspection), whilst the bulb sits in the reflector housing at the right place, the lighting is terrible - I honestly feel sorry for anyone who's stuck with compliance xenon ex-HID headlights after getting used to the 'real thing'.

Good luck with it.

Thanks matey sounds good, but oh dear on my part (insert sad face here)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Bro,

Yesterday, my Gtt was defected. But what a joke, they defected my exhaust, not loud, because it is not standard!!!! and pod filter, thats it............. they wrote on the paper, "emmission systems to be returned to standard.

Ting

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...