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  • 4 weeks later...

f**kwit of the year award @ Welshpool pits in WA (it seems it's not hard to win this award there).

One defect I had was for "HICAS light to operate correctly" on my R34 as the HICAS was replaced with a lock bar and the dash light stayed on.

I obtained permits for the lock bar, and assumed simply removing the bulb will clear the defect.

Apparently not, f**kwit of the year exclaimed they still need to "operate correctly". Can someone please enlighten me how to make a HICAS light operate correctly with no HICAS on the car?

Doubt the HiCAS will work or the light will appear to work with a lock bar in place mate. I would just remove the lock bar, get it through and than put it back on again. If that is what you are planning on doing.

I don't use a lock bar and never had HiCAS issues with mine.

A couple of problems that that idea. Lock bar was on the car when purchased so I do not have a spare hicas. Also you cannot remove lock bar without replacing it with something

Anyway I called up the main office and they agreed it was a shit decision so I can get that defect removed from the list.

A couple of problems that that idea. Lock bar was on the car when purchased so I do not have a spare hicas. Also you cannot remove lock bar without replacing it with something

FYI (incase you need to clear it in future) you can use a non-hicas subframe instead of the lock-bar solution which is entirely regency friendly.

Good that they removed that defect though - sounded pretty trivial really...

-D

Edit - Krishy, I think you're the only dude I know (aside from me) who still hasn't removed hicas ;)

Hasn't given me any issues since I bought the car, so my theory of why f**k with something that isn't broke yet????

Mine gave me a bit of shit the first year or two I owned it. Narrowed it down to a non-compatible boss kit (Nardi wheel). Got the boss kit and everything started working perfectly.

Was wierd tho - the hicas would get confused after 10-15 minutes of driving and then disable itself (hicas light on continuously) - what was happening is because the magnets in the wheels were in different positions depending on the era of skyline, and it was actually tricking the ecu into thinking that the car has been driving in circles for the last 10-15 minutes.

Also if you went over 80kph within those 10-15 minutes, the rear wheels would change toe (scare the shit out of you too) and you'd have to drive straight with the wheel "not entirely centred"

I screwed around with so many different software solutions too, and none of them were useful - apparently Conzult Z32 can read HICAS codes from the R32 GTR but thats the only one - BUT the software is locked to use only the usb/OBD cable that Conzult sell (so no chance using the software with the cable I bought from the blokes who fitted my nistune).

In the end, the multimeter and the service manual was how I figured it out. And yes, it took a long, long time ;\

That said, working HICAS is great.... taking roundabouts at 60kph like a boss. cos chicks dig it.

-D

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey all last night i got defected for car being low and boost gauge so now i have to go thru regency, was just wondering if anyone with gtst r33 s2 who passed regency can give me some pointers or the list of everything that has been done to clear of the defect. I know about major stuff such as exhaust,suspension but im more interested in HICAS as it was removed before i bought the car (still got it in my shed as i got it with the car) so will i have to connect it properly with oil lines etc. or can i just install it without connecting all the stuff?

FYI (incase you need to clear it in future) you can use a non-hicas subframe instead of the lock-bar solution which is entirely regency friendly.

Good that they removed that defect though - sounded pretty trivial really...

-D

Edit - Krishy, I think you're the only dude I know (aside from me) who still hasn't removed hicas ;)

still have the HICAS sittin in mine, no problems at all :D

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