Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, got for sale a series 2 manual r31 skyline. Runs really well and has a sound system consisting of an aftermarket headunit and good speakers that go bloody loud and create lots of bass without distorting at all. I had plans to convert the engine to twin cam rb30det using a 25 head but have just moved house and theres no room for the extra car so it has to go. Its in roadworthy condition with good tread on the tyres and clean looking, all lights working etc etc. Paint is fading in some areas but can easily be touched up or respray the car. No rust at all. Very clean engine with no problems. Just a great daily driver / first car for new red p's or a good base for an rb30det conversion.

Can organise roadworthy and reg for extra $800 but you might as well do it yourself.. :banana:

After $1500 atm.

Inspections welcome.

Located in SE suburbs of melbourne.

Call 0423 712 016 if your interested.

Pics can be taken on request.

Cheers

Oh and air con, power steering etc all work like a dream!!! Also has aftermarket alarm installed and a brand new very powerfull battery.

Edited by Bennett

Here are the pics as promissed.

Also has series 3 hotplate rear lights and fog lights on the front!!!!

img3942je4.th.jpg

img3943az7.th.jpg

img3944ef2.th.jpg

img3945ek4.th.jpg

img3946pf5.th.jpg

img3948kz6.th.jpg

img3949ty8.th.jpg

img3951zn7.th.jpg

img3952pp4.th.jpg

img3954op0.th.jpg

img3955gz0.th.jpg

The crome parts around the windows have been painted black and its chipping off a bit. Can be easily re-done. Also a bit of primer on the boot which can be painted over. The car looks dumped in the photos as i was moving house and still have half my car parts in the car. They will be taken out in the next few days. The car also has a gasket leak which i will fix over the next few days. Apart from that the car runs perfectly. You can test drive it with me so i can prove this if you like, just give me a call anytime. Also as you can see the car doesnt have too many km's for its age and the interior is in great condition. Photos of the boot sill have been provided to show that there is no rust as under the rear window is a common area for it to "rot away". Also at the bottom of the boot under the carpet is all sweet. If you would like any more info just call me or send a pm.

Cheers

Edited by Bennett
  • 2 weeks later...

how much we looking at for the one month redgo+car? is that gasket leak fixed and what day works for you next week? i know you got $1000 on it so you tell me what the redgo gunna cost and i will cover that

1 month temp reg is around $70 from memory so $1070. Free most of next week, just give me a call on 0423712016 to make sure.

And yeah the gasket leak is fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...