Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently put a new forward facing plenum on my car, it uses the standard runners. I have reassembled it and can not get it to seal properly (tried 5 tmes over the weekend with the old gasket and some goo). I keep testing it after reassembly but it keeps leaking through the join of the 2 halves.

My questions are:

Has anyone ever had this problem and if so what did you do to fix it?

Where can i get a new rubber gasket from and its part number if known?

Is there a substitute for it maybe a paper gasket or something of the like?

Is there an aftermarket one maybe?

Would a paper gasket work at all with some goo?

I have searched and can not find anything on it and the only gasket i can find is within a VRS kit and i dont want the whole kit.

Many thanks in advance

Peter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/
Share on other sites

Just got off the phone to nissan it is $105, anyone know of a cheaper after market one. I have found a cometic one but cant find any distributers in sydney.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Cometic-Intake-Collecto...1742.m153.l1262

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/#findComment-4292978
Share on other sites

I didnt use spacers to hold it off the base, that is where my problem lies as i squashed the gasket too much and it leaked, I have the rubber gasket. Can you get a metal reinforced gasket for it can you? How thick should the spacers be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/#findComment-4294761
Share on other sites

Pete,

if the plenum is off now, what is the length of the spacers holding it up off the base?

then measure the gasket you have, also is that gasket the metal reinforced one or the plain rubber?

Craved, do you know where to find these metal reinforced collector gaskets?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/#findComment-4313009
Share on other sites

as far as i knew factory one wasnt rubber? im pretty sure mine was metal rings on gasket card/

i reused my original one in an engine with 1.4 bar and have not noticed a problem

may i suggest also that you check the plenum face in a few directions with a straight edge, if it isnt flat, you will never get a bulletproof seal from paper or metal.. or anything else if its too bad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/#findComment-4319110
Share on other sites

nissan i believe

though i think they only sell the all rubber ones now like Pete already used.

Bugger, my tuner has said the same thing. He has tried different VINs from both Nissan Oz and Nissan Japan, and they all rock up as being rubber now..

I've hopefully sourced a metal one off the forums though :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247189-plenum-leak/#findComment-4319701
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Factory LSD is supposedly a 2 way with a very conservative cam. If you've already tried adding friction modifier to the diff oil and it still locks up too much for your liking you might want to adjust the ramp rate on the cam to be more like OEM instead of reducing initial torque even further. People claim the 8 kgf-m disc kit for the OEM LSD is still very streetable but I've never been able to compare everything side by side on my own.
    • Oh man, at least it sounds they've accepted they stuffed up and not put it back on you...could see some confusion if they asked if it had a hardtop or not, and you've answered truthfully but maybe not answering their real question which is what roof did it have from the factory! Glad your keeping it N/A 2.5
    • Nah, I much prefer colour matched Talking about colour matching stuff, the new/used boot lid turned up, all painted up perfectly......aaaannnndddd, it's for a power retractable hard top, not a soft top.....LOL They are now sending a boot to fit a soft top.....,  whilst frustrating, life is like that sometimes, sometimes you just need to dodge, duck, dip, dive and, ummm, dodge.
    • You would need to paint your hardtop again though
    • I have an old R32 in the shed that hasnt moved much in the last few years and probably should see the light of day. At one point I had a Nismo 1.5 centre put in the rear diff. It is a clunky nightmare POS of a thing on a good day. To make it less painful the initial torque setting has been put on the minimum (7.0kgf-m, mid is 9.5, high is 14) and the oil changed out to something more slippery. But it is still awful and ruins the vibe of the thing. So my questions are: Given I have the original parts sitting in a box somewhere would it be better to rebuild the thing again, reverting to more purity? Is there a standard kit or do you just go and replace the friction plates etc and shim it the way you like it. How much initial torque does the standard R32 rear diff have? Or does the Nismo disc kit offer a better solution - the caveat being the initial torque for both options appears to be higher than the clunky 1.5 way. There appear to be two Nismo disc kits: 3843S-RS520 for 8kgf-m. 3843S-RS521 for 12kgf-m. Or is the easiest solution to reshim the Nismo diff to make it looser?
×
×
  • Create New...