Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247206-r33-dying-randomly-while-driving/
Share on other sites

You can do an ECU diagnostic using a paper clip and shorting out two pins on the consult port, a code will flash on the dash. Do a search for it on the forums, the ECU will supposedly remember problems for 50 or so starts. May help shed some light...

Edited by MintR33
Does the car idle roughly or abnormally?

i got that problem fixed it did idle rough got a new crank angle sensor and went away just dyes randomly know say ur driving and out of no where will loose all power and stop

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

does it idle when you slow down, after applying a tiny amount of boost. i've been having this problem as well. we figured out that the car stalls when you apply boost, even if its a little bit and then you come to a stop or change gears. i think its sumthing to do with the turbo , but then again i mite be wrong

i hope its not the turbo cars gonna send me broke lol :)

I would say it's an electrical problem, possibly one of the relays controlling the injectors or coilpacks. Maybe check the plugs (onto the relays) first, then try replacing the relays.

Sounds like your ignitor if its a series one (being that year it should be) which is located in the engine bay, S2 is actually bundled in with the ECU inside the car to avoid this problem. As it warms up (and its on its way out it) it should cut power to the coilpacks. Once its cooled (or using a cool shorting trick) it should start again. Replace or reposition it away from the engine to fix. Common on RB30's with the ignition module under the dizzy

Hi ive been having this issue for a month know i did all the normal stuff like new fuel pump, coils, new crank angle sensor, afm so on but hasnt solved my problem if any one has any idea on what to do next please let me know as i can not drive the car its really annoying. :)

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Hey mate, I just collected my car from the workshop. I was having the same problem as you. I just did my 100k service..the mechanics told me the timing of my car was abit off which was causing the dying of the car and i had a boost controller installed which tuned my turbo. My car is driving fine now.. maybe you should check the timing.

Cheers!

Thanks man ye i got all that checked all turned out good engine runs like a dream my tuner is saying it can be your alarm kicking in when you are driving which imobilises the engine and shuts offf all i gotta say

SKYLINE OWNER SHIP= STRESS and ALOT OF FUN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...