Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

I have a R32 GTS4 with a set of HSD HR coilovers - spring, 15 step damper and height adjustable.

Now, these coilovers came off a GTST - I changed the rear bottom mounting cups to mate the GTR/S4 suspenion set up.

HSD HR spring rates for a 32 GTST are: Front-8 Rear-6

HSD HR spring rates for a 32 GTR (So GTS4 aswel) are: Front-9 Rear-7

Now in mid corner the car would become very unsettled, oversteer very easily, be unpredictable and kinda "skipps" accross the slightest uneven surfaces.

Its really quite scary, because you cant feel oversteer begining to come in, it just slid out of no where.

Now I was talking to a GTR owner during the hill climbs at Bathurst, and he said he had the same problem, swapped the speings at the rear for 5kg's and was cheering.

So, will a 5kg spring sort things out?

Whats a stock rear spring rate for a 32 GTS4?

How do I know how far to dial up the damper settings to make up for th softer spring?

Does it matter if its a 4 door? Weight distribution?

Do i need to check anything on the new springs besides, spring rate, id diameter and length? Would brands matter?

I realise its a bit of a bastardized suspension set up, but hey, it cost me $50 for almost new coilovers.

Could this set up work? HSD HR GTST front coilover:8kg & HSD HR GTST rear coilover with 5kg spring by what ever brand?

Any help is much appreciated

Thanks guys!

Edited by GTS4WD

do you have adjustable sway bars in it? If so soften the rear a touch.

If not, then yes, a softer rear spring will help.

You can also play with more rear toe in.

As far as the adjustable damper goes; you are adjusting both bump and rebound at the same time so you need to find a happy medium. I generally would go somewhere around 10-11 front and rear and pretty much leave it or go up, but not down. I tend to think if you go too soft on the damper thinking that it will soften that end of the car then you aren't controlling the spring properly, particularly higher spring rates, which can lead very similar issues to what you are describing...

Wow.. that acctually makes allot of sence. Because thats exactly what I did! hahaha.

I never really touched the front dampers. I put a front strut bar and GTR bonnet, so I lessened the weight and stiffened it, so im happy with the front. Feels great, direct, no understeer etc. Dampers are set at 0. Should i be increasing them to further change the ratio front/rear?

You have to excuse me. Im not inept in terms of suspension. But im not fluent in its techincalities. Its by far the most difficult part of a car to grasp, understand and disect.

Current specs are:

ride height- front 350mm rear 345mm

alignment- front 1;5 deg neg camber, 5 degree caster, 1mm toe out, rear 1.30 deg neg camber,

2mm toe in per side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...