Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today I jis purchased Motul Turbolight 4100 after a few mates recommended it, as soon as started my baby was the whole engine began to shudder, it settled down after reaching temp (which is at exactly half, same as previous oil) however when driving under 2.5 - 2K revs would still shudder, my presssure has dropped also to below 4, and wait for it, turbo doesnt boot in at all, jis feels gutless and runs ruff as rocks. What would be the best thing for me to do to fix this?

Thankyou.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247679-argh-motul-turbolight-4100-wtf/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ay mate, i noticed when i used motul my pressure was always really low, 2-4, so yeah not the only one out there, it used to sit on 6-8 with castrol edge

best way to fix, dump oil, put different brand in, if problems persiste see your mechanic asap

did you accidentally put cooking oil in it???? depending on modds and all that but no motor oil should do that..... change the oil and see what happens.... other than that it does seem to have similar symptons to a spark problem with the info you gave.... i'd check that if the problem doesnt go away

Some experts on oil in this thread i see....

There is nothing wrong with turbolight, and as for being a semi-synthetic, most oils are actually semi-synthetic, even if it says "Synthetic" on the oil, it doesn't mean it is 100% synethetic. But thats another topic. Back to the original problem.

What your describing has nothing to do with the properties/brand of the oil, its a 10W40 for the record. What else was done to the car at the same time as the oil? Spark plugs changed?

ive used it before and no probs. true that oil pressure is lower but i cant see it being the cause of your problem though. did you do anything else when you changed your oil like sparks, fuel filter and stuff. they would more likely be the culprit than the oil in my opinion.

Some experts on oil in this thread i see....

There is nothing wrong with turbolight, and as for being a semi-synthetic, most oils are actually semi-synthetic, even if it says "Synthetic" on the oil, it doesn't mean it is 100% synethetic. But thats another topic. Back to the original problem.

What your describing has nothing to do with the properties/brand of the oil, its a 10W40 for the record. What else was done to the car at the same time as the oil? Spark plugs changed?

Yea.. thats y I recommended 300v and mobile 1 supersyn, since they are 100% synthetic. i.e. group 4, 5 synthetic base. Not sure about royal purple thou. 4100 is probabaly group 3 and group 1 oil mixed together, fine if you use it in camery, but no way in hell i'll put that in my skyline.

did you spill some into the coilpack area?? i second that no oil can do that on its own.. only if it gets in somewhere its not meant to, or its soo thin that its getting into the cylinders..

maybe your turbo seals are kapoot.. thinner oil seeping in there, boost seeping out etc. mine did this when my seals went.

and for the record... i use repsol competion elite... never had a problem.. $68 for 5L.

Edited by NZM.031

Yea unfortunately I filling up the oil was the only thing i did to it at that point, so kinda makes me think that maybe my turbo seals have blown or something >.< however i didnt drain the previous oil remainders out, wouldn't have been much :) but yea should i have done this? yeah it seemed to want the whole 2 litres of the motul and well i will have to drain the motul out n e way, is the bolt hard to get too? i fear i may to jack it up

it should take about 3.8-4.2L of oil. when you mean remainders, you did drain the old oil out first yeah? Your asking if its hard to get to the bolt which implies that you didnt change the oil at all, you just filled 2L of motul in with the old oil. Thats a lot of oil to pack in. when i bought my turbolight it came in more than a 2L bottle. Did you change the oil filter too?

sounds like you didnt do a proper oil or a service for that matter to me...thats how I'm seeing it from what you've said.

The sump plug bolt isn't at all hard to get to. I can get at it without jacking my car up (stock ride hight). If your car is lower you might need to jack it up, but it would still be easy to get at.

Nothing wrong with 4100.

I have done many oil changes with it. Pulled engine down for a rebuild and the engine was in perfect condition. As long as you do an oil change every 5000km its perfectly fine.

there is no engine oil on the planet that can cause ur motor to run like that. unless u did something wrong. did you even drain the old oil completely includint the 500ml or so that is in the oil filter. if u are going to do an oil change u need to do it properly or there is no point in doing it. i usually change my oil every 5000km and have had no worries. i even put a very heavy 25W-60 in one day to see how the enging would behave. nothing happened but the oil pressure was higher.. it sounds to me like u just topped up the oil that was alreeady in there with new oil. probably massivley overfilled the sump causing windage. where the crankshaft hits the oil and churns it up. if u drained the oil and only put in 2L ur in trouble.. put more in ASAP and check ur dipstick. that is what it is there for.

Yea unfortunately I filling up the oil was the only thing i did to it at that point, so kinda makes me think that maybe my turbo seals have blown or something >.< however i didnt drain the previous oil remainders out, wouldn't have been much :banana: but yea should i have done this? yeah it seemed to want the whole 2 litres of the motul and well i will have to drain the motul out n e way, is the bolt hard to get too? i fear i may to jack it up

ummmm so you had all your oil in the car (4.5-5L) and then added 2L of Turbolight into it.........?

ay mate, i noticed when i used motul my pressure was always really low, 2-4, so yeah not the only one out there, it used to sit on 6-8 with castrol edge

best way to fix, dump oil, put different brand in, if problems persiste see your mechanic asap

Where is it meant to sit? mines sitting between 3-4 but seems fine? now im confused!

Thanks for all the help so far guys, unfortunately i have been a ford (cough cough) person my whole life until now so im not too mechanically familiar with my baby >.< having serviced at the mechos, does sound like i have overfilled it a bit, obviously my dipstick is accurate, my pressure had been sitting low for a while and it sounded a lil rough, problem is obviously with something else and i may have jis made a new one yay.

I noticed an oil leak dripping from near edge of the cooler this morning, so kind makes me think yea its overfilled.

PUDZ you were saying .. "it sounds to me like u just topped up the oil that was alreeady in there with new oil. probably massivley overfilled the sump causing windage. where the crankshaft hits the oil and churns it up".... windage does this cause a bit of a shudder at times if this is what u are refferring too?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...