Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i recently bought a freshly imported uncompliable r32 gtr for parts for another car im building... complete drivable un stuffed with car i basically have the car as it was bought in japan nothing has been removed

has a few minor mods but still std ecu and the like .8 bar boost set on the boost controller

to say the thing runs great is an understatement it does not miss at all drives great and bloody hammers in the short few hundred metre drives up the road it had when unloading it off the trailer i have had it hot and cold several times

but i did a compression test because when you hold the revs up at about 3000 or so for about 30 seconds or so a small amount of smoke starts to exit the exhaust not blue not black just smoke... no real colour to it thats noticable

compressions as tested 30 mins ago with my new snap on compression tester are as follows

1-150

2-120

3-149

4-146

5-139

6-149 all in psi

number 2 is my main concern , now im wondering is it common that engines develop sticky rings if for instance theyre sitting in a yard for ages in japan or on docks or ship etc because this car has really badly surface rusted brake rotors so it hasnt been driven properly in a long time ... ive tried sprayinga good dose of crc down all the cylinders and left it a few days then warmed it up again and re tested and this hasnt massivly changed the readings if at all...

i do know about the old teaspoon of engine oil then retest it and if it comes up its stuffed ringlands or rings etc ,i did this quickly with crc and yes it did come up but this would also cure sticky rings i havent done it properly to properly assess it yet

im just not totally convinced that the engine is broken as it really runs too good... with the filler cap off there is NO blowby at all...with loading it up on the dyno to get it hot loaded up and things like that would that help if it is sticky or is it just rooted....opinions???

Edited by WHITE R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/247801-rb26-engine-compression-woes/
Share on other sites

I hope you have serviced your car and warm'd up the engine before started trashing it.

At the minimum you should replce your oil and oil filter, probabaly a good idea to change th fuel filter as well and flush the radiator.

Get a leakdown test done, it'll be more conlusive.

I hope you have serviced your car and warm'd up the engine before started trashing it.

At the minimum you should replce your oil and oil filter, probabaly a good idea to change th fuel filter as well and flush the radiator.

Get a leakdown test done, it'll be more conlusive.

i diddnt "trash" it it was well and truly warm... im not totally dumb :D i just wanted to see what i was like comming onto boost etc... 1 and 2nd gears only and not flat out

im not going to go and perform a full 100000km service on a car that im just using for parts

i do know a fair bit about cars im not looking for service advice as such... more directed at the sticky rings theory/if imported cars that have sat for ages come good after a while of use in specific cases like mine

i do plan on a leakdown test later next week but cracked piston broken ringland rooted rings sticky rings will all give the same result there too

thanks for your reply:)

Edited by WHITE R32

IF the sticky ring theory is right (i've got no idea) then try using Delvac-1 at your next oil change. Its a mixed fleet oil (can be used in diesel as well) fully synthetic, with excellent cleaning properties. I use it as my regular oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...