Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

peice of stainless steel about 2mm thick

Forget stainless, at 2mm it is pretty heavy stuff, and a real bastard to work with due to the tensile strength of the stuff (Have you tried drilling it yet?)

Go to a place like Smart Aluminium, they have a minimum invoice value of $10 and that gets you plenty of scrap aluminium sheet to make ducting for around ICs, filters etc etc.

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys, as I tell everone who asks, a POD with no heat shield and no ambient air feed is costing power and therefore is a wate of money.

Remember 8 degrees celsius lower engine inlet air temperature = 5% more horsepower. So if the ambient air temperature is 20 degrees and your POD is sucking hot air from the radiator and/or the turbo and it's at 44 degrees, it's costing you 15%. That's 230 rwkw versus 200 rwkw.

For those who don't have a shield and air feed, when you get the dyno run, make sure you do one with the bonnet closed, it might change your mind. I am really sick and tired of seeing articles in magazines with pictures of cars with POD's just stuck in the engine bay. In our climate it's a joke.

Sorry, got carried away there.

I have a similiar setup to steves

U can also remove the rubber seal around the passenger side headlight under the bonnet to let more air in and feed a big benable pipe from the front bar through the stock ic holes. With the stock front bar and cooler it is near impossible to do tho.

as per mr r32's challenge - does anyone have a running relationship with unique auto sports?? if so, we could try organising a group buy of their air boxes, as shown at:

http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists...ine%20parts.htm

thats of course the lazy way.

Originally posted by cobo_11

At the moment I just have the factory air feed thing from the front of the car with the little "guide" that used to go into the factory air box.

What would you recommend for a decent fresh air feed for the POD?

Originally I had the hole from the stock intercooler pipe, with a piece of aircon duct from the front bar.

I have since upgraded to a 4" hole, ie widened the stock cooler pipe hole and using larger piping.

I suppose the bigger the hole the better:)

You think the stainless will be too heavy?

At the end of the day the extra weight is not likely to be a kilogram, so really how important is it.

Even if you have good holesaws 2mm stainless is crappy stuff to work with. See how you go... but assuming you will at a minimum be needing to cut 3 sides and 2 x 65mm holes im guessing you will quickly run out of patience trying to work with it... see how you go.

stainless would look unreal, but unless your a stainless steel welder or ur dad is forget it, to get someone to do it would cost an arm and a leg,

If you can do all the cutting/fitting then just go down to a local fabrication/boilermaker company and offer them a case of Crownies etc to weld it. They should be able to Tig it all in less then 30minutes.

If you do all the labourioius cutting and fitting, and passivation of the weld after they have Tig'd it , then you have taken all the expense out of what they are doing, and it is no longer a 4 hour job @ $65/hour.

I love sharing shat I have done to cars...hope this helps those who aren't sure what to do. As I said above I used carbon fiber to build my box. This was a 1000mm x 1000mm x 5mm sheet made of a single layer of carbon then a layer of special ridgit foam than another layer of carbon. The sheet wasn't cheap but carbon isn't, but dam it looks cool :P Some of these pics have captions which I had used on my old site.

1. This is the original cardboard template I made to get the shape of the side wall, making sure there was room for hoses and fmic pipes.

heatshield9.JPG

2. Here it is in place, I actually made a second one that was neater and had straight edges .

heatshield8.JPG

3. Next was the top, again made in thick cardboard.

160502carbon%20stage2l.JPG

4. Here it is in place.

160502carbon%20stage2k.JPG

5. Adding more cardboard and taping it together to make the entire top.

160502carbon%20stage2j.JPG

6. Not sure about excited...broke more like it

heatshieldimexcited.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...