Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the lad just wants to know what the best setup for his car would be, didnt need everyone elses bullshit input about being illigal.. Givve the guy a break..Have a lookk where the guys llves before start gobbin off about young skyline owners give others a bad name. He's most likely older then you anyway...

gt3040R with 44mm gate and screamer low mount, do it up....

We are giving him the best advice, and a screamer is not good advice. He's 19, and I am 27. I know what the go is with the police, and I am sick of young dickheads putting this shit on, making it hard for me to take my pride and joy out, even if its just to go and get some milk.

thanks for all your input guys but still not sure what to go with because as said the gt3040R setup has alot more potential if i rebuild it

for the record its a daily driven car and i turn 19 in feb

must set the record straight love my car and not all people my age are "dickheads"

getting back on subject

what would be the max power and response out of the gt3071R

and what would GT3040 max power be if i rebuilt it in 6 months or so?

looking at 380 up to 400 hp@wheels!

Mate, the GT3040 turbo is a piece of shit. I have tuned 4-5 cars with them, they are laggy, under performing, and sound like junk. They do nothing until the car hits about 4000rpm, and then this big useless wave of power that falls off really quickly. I have no idea why people use them.

I run a GT3037, with a 56 trim, 0.6 Compressor cover (surge slotted) and a 0.63 rear (I don't recommend a rear this small, get the 0.82) and it comes on boost a lot earlier, and makes a lot more top end than these GT3040's.

Also, The GT3071 is over rated. Most people jam a tiny Skyline rear housing on it to make it "fit the dump pipe etc" and wonder why it maxes out at 240rwkw. They aren't quite as laggy as the GT3037, but thats because of the restrictive rear that you put on them. Having a 71mm Compressor instead of a 76mm Compressor also helps them be a little more responsive, but even if you put a decent garret rear on them, you're risking it trying to make anymore than 270rwkw.

Is there any particilar reason you picked those two turbos? I would go a 3076 .82. Plenty of response and enough flow to blow a stock motor if need be. Can make a drivable 300rwkw which is enough to have it spinning at any legal speed

This is the best advice given.

i chose the gt3071r because it looks stock, goes hard, and is bolt up (no custom shit takes time and money)

and the GT3040r because there i a decent setup in the fore sale section.

i like the stock look and the ease of the gt3071R but i love the sound of gate!!!!

just means its alot more illegal

The GT3037 looks exactly the same as the GT3071. And there is no such thing as "simple bolt up". You still need new oil and water lines. If you use Skyline housings (if thats even possible for the compressor cover) You're going to be bitterly disappointed when the tuner tunes it and only makes 230-240rwkw.

the GT3071 that you are talking about in this case sounds like it has been shoehorned into a nissan turbine housing.

the geniune whole garrett item needs oil and water lines just like the GT3040 plus new dump pipe and new intake.

Shoe horned into foreign housings is a very bad thing. Destroys the physics of the original turbo flow maps.

I agree again, you need all new oil and water lines. (done it!)

correct me if im wrong but i was under the impreshion the exhaust housing was bolt on with a spacer.

and yes you buy kits with the water/oil lines and intercooler piping mod.

They are a bolt on with a spacer, I used a 10mm spacer. BUT, the garret turbine housing requires a dump pipe to suit. Dump pipes are a lot less than getting a dodgey rear housing profiled to suit the turbo, bolting it all up, tuned for $800, being disappointed, and then realising you need a new rear, new dump pipe, and a new tune. (You'd waste over $1000 changing it all over)

Anyway, there is a educated response.

Do you know why I know all of this? Because I did it all the wrong way too. I learnt from it, and put on the GT3037, with all the native housings, and did it all properly, and will never look back.

These are the only 3 turbos worth using within this power range in my opinion:

GT-RS - 240rwkw - 260rwkw

GT3037 - 260rwkw - 320rwkw

GT3540 - 330rwkw - 380rwkw

Edited by The Mafia

GTRS = GT2871R 52T with HKS housings , GT3076R = GT3037 56T , GT3540R = GT3582R 56T .

The Real GT3071R is a stand out because it seems to need large turbine housings than many like to make them work .

A .

BTW Don't bother with the GT3040R/GT3082R , known not to be too good given the alternatives .

Not sure of the specs on my gt3040 but it starts boosting around 2400 and hits 15psi by 3100 so i wouldnt call it laggy. Not sure how it compares in top end though

Yours might have a different configuration like a smaller rear - to which it would fall off the power quickly. HOw much power are you making? Do you have a dyno graph?

Mafia, by GT-RS you mean GT2871, by GT3037 you mean GT3076 and by GT3540 you mean GT3582 right ?

Yeap.

GTRS = GT2871R 52T with HKS housings , GT3076R = GT3037 56T , GT3540R = GT3582R 56T .

The Real GT3071R is a stand out because it seems to need large turbine housings than many like to make them work .

A .

BTW Don't bother with the GT3040R/GT3082R , known not to be too good given the alternatives .

Disco is correct - These are the three best alternative turbos. I apologise for not giving detailed information last night, was a bit tired.

Yeah well I reckon the GT3071R can be made to work but I think it's really designed for low exhaust restriction apps where a broad flat torque line is needed .

It's probably a band aid for the lack of GT3076R/3037 turbos in smaller compressor trims ie 48/52T . I have seen versions of it with T04B comp covers for Rex's .

If I can ever find a way to adapt the soon to be released Evo 10 twin scroll twin integral gate GT30 turbine housing thats what I'd like to use .

A .

Sorry cant apload graph so i have just written down a few points. My intake was sucking shut and hitting a wall at 5750rpm, its now sorted and pulls nice to 7200rpm. I also had missing troubles which seem to be sorted aswell.

At 16PSI it was as follows

150rwkw at 3600

200rwkw at 4600

247rwkw at 5750

I'm not arguing anything as i have only driven this car but it seems to go well enough for me. If there are better alternatives for similar price then i would go for them.

What exactly is the gt3040 and what makes it a bad choice (the car came with this turbo).

Cheers

James

PS: Car is stock besides front mount 3" exhaust, supporting mods and remap.

Edited by Bond

Just my opinion but since I have the genuine 3071 with .82 turbine housing I would suggest going the 3076. This is the proper turbo for the RB25 engine. The 3071 at the moment will make 264rwkws but to go more I am in the process of installing a cam gear to move the power further up the rev range and modifying the dump pipe for less restriction. Then going 3.5" exhaust instead of 3". The reason I mention this is because everything has to be just right when the compressor is nearing the end of it's efficientcy. Go the bigger compressor in the 3076 and never have to worry again.

The HKS 2835 Pro S is another option. And it comes in kit form.

But bang for bucks and growth potential its hard to go past the 3076 with the 0.82 rear, look at this:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bochargers.html

and go shopping.

The HKS 2835 Pro S is another option. And it comes in kit form.

But bang for bucks and growth potential its hard to go past the 3076 with the 0.82 rear, look at this:

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bochargers.html

and go shopping.

Yep its a good balance between top end and response... exchange rate has kinda screwed the pooch on HKS kits now tho

Just whatever you do get a catch can... I just destroyed my compressor on the skid pan with oil injected back into the intake:(

as you can see I need a better exhaust, its choking it up top but I reckon an extra 10rwkws there easy

post-7369-1228716772_thumb.jpg

I'm running a HKS3037 .68 rear(equivalent to a Garrett 3076) and actually think its not too laggy at all. I'm making 260rwkw @ 16psi on what some people say is a hungry Dyno but i think its pretty spot on. I'm using the standard air box and K&N panel filter. Very happy with how it has turned out open the bonnet and nothing grabs your attention to make you think theres anything but a standard set up there. IMO go the HKS route if your after a neat easy install with no other parts required, might be a bit more pricey but easier in the long run.

Yeah, but they aren't bolt up. The Garrett's are all custom water, oil and dump and sometimes a 10mm plate and yes I've been there, I have a 3076.

mine came with oil and water lines from garrett. Its not hard and cost bugger all to get a custom dump to fit and the 10mm plate should even be a factor its so basic.

Get the screamer if you want mate, enjoy it while your young because the mafia's right things like that do give you the shits as you get older

Just be prepared to be abosolutely raped if the police find it though.

Edited by Gts30t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...