Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to move on and sell my beloved 2004 Mitsubish Evo 8MR.

$49,990ono for a well modified car using only quality parts, perfect for someone who wants to do some trackwork/Duttons etc.

Open to offers and swaps (for equal or lesser value, not more).

http://carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/M...=83&trecs=1

55,xxx kms

4 months rego

Other than the standard MR goodies (very supportive Recaros, HIDs, auto window/mirrors, rear wiper etc) it has the following mods (well over $20K worth):

Built Tomei 2.3L stroker (crank, pistons, rods)

MoTeC M800 PnP

Cosworth 272 Cams

Trust PE2 turbo back exhaust

Bosch 044 fuel pump

ORC twin plate clutch

KW Variant 3 coilovers

Endless CC-X front pads, Ferodo DS2500 rear

18x9 +29 Advan RS (including a spare, no tyre on it)

245/40/18 Federal something tyres

Seibon carbon fibre front lip

Suede covered steering wheel

Ralliart rear strut brace

Maitland Performance half-cage with harness bar, weld in (can be removed if buyer wishes)

Sabelt 4-point harness

330hp and 485Nm on the ASG hub dyno. With the extra 300cc and stock twin scroll turbo its a torque monster and is a thrill to drive. Upgrading the turbo would be the next logical step...

All mechanical work and servicing performed at ASG in Malaga, receipts available.

Selling as a complete package at this stage but will consider separating if the right offer is presented.

PM me or SMS/call 0421 799 948 - not always able to answer my phone at work (before 4pm) so if I dont answer leave a message and I'll get back to you.

Solid lines is current

img9458jm7.jpg

evo8mr003vf7.jpg

26096509491c325896a1oxz3.jpg

evo8mr021ce4.jpg

kwcoiloverinstallation0id4.jpg

evo8mr015ye0.jpg

Edited by evoboy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248072-mitsubishi-evo-8mr/
Share on other sites

Because its on stock turbo (TD05) and runs out of puff by that stage, with the 2.3 this car is all about response and low down grunt.

Turbo kit would be the next upgrade for anyone who wanted to go that way, but for me this is much more suited to street driving.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
×
×
  • Create New...