R32 Gtr Front Upper Arms

[Swiper the Fox]

We broke our adjustable front uppers at Superlap last year and are looking for new ones...what's available?

[Luke_ENR34]

What brand did u break? Im running cusco and i love them, lots of adjustment and pretty solid.

[ISC-Performance]

Have a pair of silk road/section ones for sale $449.

Ryan

[Swiper the Fox]

Have a pair of silk road/section ones for sale $449.

Ryan

they are the type that we broke...looking for something a little more durable

Edited December 8, 2008 by DiRTgarage

[Beer Baron]

hi mate, the noltec type sliding ones are good and strong but good luck getting some unfortunately. gary has been 'organising' a 'group buy' on these for what seems like forever. and as far as I know all those guys are still waiting.

the 32 uppers are a biatch to be honest. it may be worth considering the change to 33/34 style. mucho bueno.

otherwise cusco fixed length ones wont break, and wont break the bank either, but obviously not adjustable. but you can get some shorter cusco fixed length uppers, then fine tune the camber as needed with some ikeya formula adjustable lower control arms (well worth the coin, they come with new, bigger, redesigned castor rods too).

or the other option is buy a few pairs of factory arms, stick new bushes in them and cut and shut to a few different lengths till you get the money set-up.

[GTRsean]

hi mate, the noltec type sliding ones are good and strong but good luck getting some unfortunately. gary has been 'organising' a 'group buy' on these for what seems like forever. and as far as I know all those guys are still waiting.

the 32 uppers are a biatch to be honest. it may be worth considering the change to 33/34 style. mucho bueno.

otherwise cusco fixed length ones wont break, and wont break the bank either, but obviously not adjustable. but you can get some shorter cusco fixed length uppers, then fine tune the camber as needed with some ikeya formula adjustable lower control arms (well worth the coin, they come with new, bigger, redesigned castor rods too).

or the other option is buy a few pairs of factory arms, stick new bushes in them and cut and shut to a few different lengths till you get the money set-up.

+1 here. The noltecs are good and are pretty tough. Also easy to grease up with the grease nipples. Bought mine from UAS a couple of years ago.

[bnr#@]

+1 here. The noltecs are good and are pretty tough. Also easy to grease up with the grease nipples. Bought mine from UAS a couple of years ago.

Do yours squeek? my right one squeeks like crazy and nothing i do fixes it...

[Duncan]

would love to see a pic of what you broke to understand why.

unfortunately there are few good options for an r32, John @ UAS has the best ones. They are adjustable length and have a pivoting centre to deal with the excessive wear problem (which the fixed style have when you have increased camber).

at the moment I am waiting for the noltec style from gary as they have the most adjustment. but in a road car you will need to allow for regular replacement of the bushes (the whitelines adjustable bushes in the standard have the same problem but more so).

if they don't come through early in the new year we will go with the UAS ones

[Phobic]

i run solid cusco ones because they are strong as the proverbial, they are great.

i was thinking about going the adjustable lower arm aswell

[GTRsean]

Do yours squeek? my right one squeeks like crazy and nothing i do fixes it...

Yeah, had that problem. Fixed it with nice gooey trailer bearing type grease. It's stickier than normal grese so lasts longer and no noise.

[bnr#@]

Yeah, had that problem. Fixed it with nice gooey trailer bearing type grease. It's stickier than normal grese so lasts longer and no noise.

Cool, cheers for that. May end up taking out the bushes though and smashing in some bearings instead. Need to find some time to take one of the arms off and take it to a bearing place

[Beer Baron]

i just give 'em a squirt every now and then via the grease nipples built in. i use some axel grease or moly grease in the grease gun.

[bnr#@]

i just give 'em a squirt every now and then via the grease nipples built in. i use some axel grease or moly grease in the grease gun.

Have done many a time, seems to do nothing for me... (moly grease mostly)

[BBGTR]

Have done many a time, seems to do nothing for me... (moly grease mostly)

I had a squeeking issue with my front left and found the that anchor bolt throught the control arm at the rear had come loose. A quick tighten and a split pin and it went away.

Kind of scary at the time. Might be worth a look.

[Swiper the Fox]

Just looked and they are Noltec...split the outer slider along the length of it...may just weld it up and put an extra gusset/bracing strap on it. Its only going back onto the drag car so no biggie.

What should we buy for the circuit car though...UAS apparantly have something in the pipeline for 32's...BB you may have to get them for me...lol

[djr81]

hi mate, the noltec type sliding ones are good and strong but good luck getting some unfortunately. gary has been 'organising' a 'group buy' on these for what seems like forever. and as far as I know all those guys are still waiting.

the 32 uppers are a biatch to be honest. it may be worth considering the change to 33/34 style. mucho bueno.

otherwise cusco fixed length ones wont break, and wont break the bank either, but obviously not adjustable. but you can get some shorter cusco fixed length uppers, then fine tune the camber as needed with some ikeya formula adjustable lower control arms (well worth the coin, they come with new, bigger, redesigned castor rods too).

or the other option is buy a few pairs of factory arms, stick new bushes in them and cut and shut to a few different lengths till you get the money set-up.

The inherent problem with trying to increase caster in an R32 is the extra stress it puts on the bushes in the upper arm. I had some real problems with this issue when running only slightly more castor than stock. For my ten cents worth I would recommend avoiding a fixed upper if you want to increase the castor by much. The upper links that can rotate may be a better selection.

The Nismo kit of castor rod, lower control arm and upper inner link mount is pretty good. Just >>> $$$$'s is all.

As an aside I measured up the Nismo bracket that holds the upper arm to the chassis. The rear locating hole for the bolt is lower by 6mm (approx) and the front hole is moved inwards by 14mm (approx). So you can see Nismo have tried to reduce the problem my twisting the upper arm.

I have some Cusco fixed length (172mm) arms spare at home that the bearings have been removed from. They are as solid as.

[Beer Baron]

yeah the UAS ones are money. very good design. they've been coming for a while though, should hopefully be available soon. lol, you and johnny should be friends again, he's not a grudge holding type.

either that or for circuit 32 I reckon the gun set-up is:

cusco shorter fixed length upper arms

ikeya formula adjustable lower arms

best way to go.

[djr81]

Hey Baron how much longer are the Ikeya LCA's relative to stock?

The Nismo ones are only 5mm each side .from memory

[Beer Baron]

yeah the nismo innner mount is a good idea. it's just a shame you can't buy it seperately only with the full kit. and that's no good for most of us who already have castor rods (and want adjustable ones) and upper arms.

you're right though, it's a battle in 32s between how much caster you want vs how much camber you can have. I think for ammature circuit type stuff you can probably use a bit more castor and mild-ish neg (2degres-2.5degrees) but once you get serious you really need decent camber and may have to live with a bit less castor. that's been my experience anyway (though i'm by no means serious about anything!).

[djr81]

yeah the nismo innner mount is a good idea. it's just a shame you can't buy it seperately only with the full kit. and that's no good for most of us who already have castor rods (and want adjustable ones) and upper arms.

you're right though, it's a battle in 32s between how much caster you want vs how much camber you can have. I think for ammature circuit type stuff you can probably use a bit more castor and mild-ish neg (2degres-2.5degrees) but once you get serious you really need decent camber and may have to live with a bit less castor. that's been my experience anyway (though i'm by no means serious about anything!).

Well obviously you are serious about beer, yes?

The Nismo kit would be better without the castor rod. I bought the kit as I was fed up with the crap Nissan front end. It is a subjective thing, but it feels like the front end binds less now it is all back together. May be its just my brain trying to justify the time/money wasted on fitting them. Anyone want some rods?

The problem with the castor/camber trade off is as you wind more +ve castor in you lose you -ve camber. So no free lunch.