R32 Gtr Front Upper Arms

[Beer Baron]

Hey Baron how much longer are the Ikeya LCA's relative to stock?

The Nismo ones are only 5mm each side .from memory

the ikeya ones are adjustable at the inner mounts. a fair bit there too. and they have the roll centre correction adjustment too. and they come with castor rods which are the beefiest thing you've ever seen. like double or tripple the thickness of standard and instead of the stupid 2 stud fixing they have a rose joint where they mount to the LCA and mount in the middle of the LCA with a huge bolt running through. very nice.

[Beer Baron]

The problem with the castor/camber trade off is as you wind more +ve castor in you lose you -ve camber. So no free lunch.

besactly! that was what I was saying (albeit poorly!).

what I meant was you get to that point where you need the camber so just have to live without the castor.

hmm, maybe I will have to buy the nismo gear and flog all the bits I don't want.

[BBGTR]

besactly! that was what I was saying (albeit poorly!).

what I meant was you get to that point where you need the camber so just have to live without the castor.

hmm, maybe I will have to buy the nismo gear and flog all the bits I don't want.

This is turning out to be a useful bit of chit chat.

The set up I have is NOLTEC Upper arm and CUCSO caster rods. Stock everything else. Tru-Track down here in Melbourne has set it up with 3.5 neg camber and 6 degrees of caster, and have had no issues with the components and it's nice on the 265/35/18 RE55's that I use. (Phillip Island is really tough on front right tyres).

It's the most caster I can fit without hitting the front of the guard liner, so can't imagine you could get any more without some modifications to the bumper etc.

Be interested in the camber/castor geometry any of you guys that run in club sprints use.

Cheers

Andrew

[Beer Baron]

i have the same as you andrew. cusco castor rods and noltec uppers. and about the same geometry as well, just a tough less neg camber and a touch more castor.

but I'll be going to the ikeya lowers when the car is up and running again. and may change the uppers. not sure yet, i'll see how I go.

[hrd-hr30]

besactly! that was what I was saying (albeit poorly!).

what I meant was you get to that point where you need the camber so just have to live without the castor.

exactly. cars typically only use about 17degrees of lock on a track, so the amount of camber gain from castor is pretty limited. Its almost always worth trading off castor for static camber if that's the choice you're faced with.

[Duncan]

pics and approx price on the ikeya lower arms richard? pretty sure price will rule them out for me.

We are going to run the noltec uppers on the new car, but as well as the fact they will flog out the bushes over time due to caster is that it is very difficult to address the front roll centre without major mods (the rear is easy by comparison).

so....we will probably follow Brad's lead and go custom lower arms with better roll centre adjustment after the first few runs. the design of the lower arm with the 2 ball joints means not much height out of the inner side.

[Risking]

pics and approx price on the ikeya lower arms richard? pretty sure price will rule them out for me.

We are going to run the noltec uppers on the new car, but as well as the fact they will flog out the bushes over time due to caster is that it is very difficult to address the front roll centre without major mods (the rear is easy by comparison).

so....we will probably follow Brad's lead and go custom lower arms with better roll centre adjustment after the first few runs. the design of the lower arm with the 2 ball joints means not much height out of the inner side.

My old GTR had Noltec uppers and like you say it flogged the bushes out every 8 meetings or so. I even tried rotating the bushes but it didnt help.

Hence you have found my reasoning for doing the new front end Duncan.

You can do away with the Original lower arm

Original upright and upper arm

Ive fabricated chromolly lower wishbone arms with a single outer balljoint and two inner rose joints mounted underneath the chassis rails.

The upper arms are almost identical to the lowers and use the original bearning pivot ontop of the hub and mount to a custom section with rose joints on the inside.

Both arms are adjustable and I can run up to 15 inch wide rim on the front without any fouling problems (with modified arches)

Bump steer is almost non existant with the arms done this way and it actually does away with the castor rod all together.

Roll center changes become easy as well. you do a similar thing to what you guys have in the rear with properly positioned holes you can change to. Im yet to experiment with the angles of the arms but that will have to wait till its on the track I guess.

Edited December 20, 2008 by Risking

[Duncan]

ahh good, so you found space for 2 inner lower mounts? Thats a better setup and the only way I can see to get rid of the caster rods.

the benefit of the noltec upper arms is while the bushes might flog out pretty quickly, they are at least a common and cheap size to replace. We have to run bushes on the caster rods too and they flog out just as badly. Turns out that's why I broke 2 caster rods (going over 150klm/h both times, one at eastern creek and one at targa). Anything that replaces these with properly designed spherical setup is a good idea for a track only car.

having said all of this, its all overkill for your average road/track car. in that case stick with the noltec or even better UAS upper arms they are great for the job. the geometry redesigns that brad has been doing are really only for very serious track only cars.

[Swiper the Fox]

Our front end set-up was

Noltec uppers

Tein casters

HKS shocks and springs

Whiteline adjustable bar

Luke said we got the front end almost spot on with our settings/geometry but he also said the rear end was squirmy under brakes and a bit soft and rolly mid corner. Under power it was good though and we realised we still had the rear coilovers set-up for drag racing...lol...no wonder it got the power down well. Ahh well... life's a lesson.

We have some Quantum coilover's from the UK for the car now so they should have the rear end under better control.

Im lovin' this corner stuff...so much to get your teeth into.

Edited December 20, 2008 by DiRTgarage

[Risking]

ahh good, so you found space for 2 inner lower mounts? Thats a better setup and the only way I can see to get rid of the caster rods.

the benefit of the noltec upper arms is while the bushes might flog out pretty quickly, they are at least a common and cheap size to replace. We have to run bushes on the caster rods too and they flog out just as badly. Turns out that's why I broke 2 caster rods (going over 150klm/h both times, one at eastern creek and one at targa). Anything that replaces these with properly designed spherical setup is a good idea for a track only car.

having said all of this, its all overkill for your average road/track car. in that case stick with the noltec or even better UAS upper arms they are great for the job. the geometry redesigns that brad has been doing are really only for very serious track only cars.

Yeah I have managed to mount two rose joints for the inner mountings. You'll have to have a look at mine (kinda keeping actual geometry close atm but can talk you through it), considerable time has gone into it, making sure the mountings are keeping geometry roughly how it was on paper. The biggest thing we had to over come was making the cage structural enough to support the strut top which is using the factory top mount and make it able to reinforce the chassis rail for the lower arm as well as the custom section for the upper wishbone. It really is re-inventing the entire cars geometry but its for the better.

I make have found a set of Penske front uprights with spindles and drive pins so could be re-doing the whole thing again yet.

I have actually settled on a set of "cheaper" coilovers for the new car too. Again on paper they should be decently matched with the right springs. The ohlins in the the old car are now staying in the car. Jay bought all the suspension that was in it so all the development that went into it will now be staying with the car, which im glad to see happen. With some luck the new geometry will be a massive step forward and allow me to use slightly more affordable dampners to get the same results.

I was speaking with Gary on Friday about sway bar and spring options so we now have a few things in the pipe line come time to go testing. Come time to get serious about your suspension Duncan I think alot of what we have learnt from doing mine will can be transfered directly to your car. I have Jig's for all the components and mounting points now.

[Luke_ENR34]

With front lower control arms would it be best going Ikeya Formula or Nismo. Any one know the difference between nismo and stock? Car is mainly street driven, but looking at doing track work early next year.

Already got the Cusco negative upper arms and Caster arms. Running -3.3degrees camber and +5.5 caster.

[Risking]

With front lower control arms would it be best going Ikeya Formula or Nismo. Any one know the difference between nismo and stock? Car is mainly street driven, but looking at doing track work early next year.

Already got the Cusco negative upper arms and Caster arms. Running -3.3degrees camber and +5.5 caster.

There is no doubt that the Ikeya arms are superior to everything else on the market. But they are still not a solution to roll center issues and they are very costly.

If your only just starting up circuit work seriously spend your money else where unless you have a need to replace the lower arms

For the cost of the lower arms you could get better brake pads/fluid all round and pay for a track day to practice. Money much better spent and you'll be faster for it.

Even if you have good brakes there are more important things to buy firstly.

[djr81]

With front lower control arms would it be best going Ikeya Formula or Nismo. Any one know the difference between nismo and stock? Car is mainly street driven, but looking at doing track work early next year.

Already got the Cusco negative upper arms and Caster arms. Running -3.3degrees camber and +5.5 caster.

The Nismo LCA is essentially a stock LCA however the outer hole in the arm is located an extra few mm's to the outside. Almost all of the Nismo suspension arms, rods brackets etc are based on stock parts or are very similar to them.

If anyone wants the roll centre adjusters I have the drawings for them both front & rear. Easy to make, a pain in the backside to install - particularly at the rear.

[White GTS-T]

What is everyone's opinion of running R33 LCA's up front?

I'm running them and have -2.5 degrees camber with +6.5 degrees castor.

Edited January 18, 2009 by White GTS-T

[djr81]

I have given up on hoping to buy something half decent to put in the front of my R32R. So I made my own. When I say I made it, well I sketched it before giving to the draftie, who gave it to the fitter who gave it to the boilermaker/welder, who gave it back to the fitter who gave it to me to fit. Anyway it appears to work & confer heroic amounts of -ve camber on the front.

I used the Whiteline bush kit. The ends are matched to the same length & id as the stock components, the trail is 22(ish)mms from memory & the length I settled on was 170mm. Bolted up nicely.

[IanB]

I run the solid cusco ones, +5 camber I think?

Good units. Have served me well.

[Drift Motorsport]

We are running D-Project ones in our R32 Drifter. They are based on the Midori Seibi design with bearings w/ lockable turnbuckle making them on-car adjustable. R33 ones are in the development phase. Bearings are stock shelf items and will take longer than bushed variants to wear out. They weigh 3kg each and are of steel construction with alloy ferrules and lock rings.

I have a few sets in stock, ready for delivery at $425 Delivered Aust Wide.

Pics & Info:

D-Project Adjustable FRONT UPPER CONTROL ARM - ADJUSTABLE FRONT Camber ARM

Suits: Skyline R32 300ZX Z32

• Adjustable Camber for the Front - Align your front tyres for maximum grip or minimum tyre wear!
  

• Forged Steel Construction - 3kg Weight EACH ARM
  

• Easy to Install - Simply Remove and Refit!
  

• On Car Adjustable - Easy to align and adjust - even when trackside
  

• GENUINE NSK JAPANESE BEARINGS USED - Low Friction and Less binding as the wheel travels!
  

• Unique Design allows for PERFECT fitment on R32 and Z32
  

• Specifically designed for the rigors of all track racing as well as street performance
  

• Special introductory Price for the first 3 sets sold!
  

• Easy to DIY Install! As simple as remove and refit to install and adjust on car!
  

$425 Delivered For the pair!

Arms For Left and Right!

Special Offset for Compatibility for Z32 Models!

Genuine JAPANESE Construction with JAPANESE NSK Bearings.

More info on D-Project parts etc for skylines.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...amp;pid=4867153

Send me a PM to order

[Roy]

I have given up on hoping to buy something half decent to put in the front of my R32R. So I made my own. When I say I made it, well I sketched it before giving to the draftie, who gave it to the fitter who gave it to the boilermaker/welder, who gave it back to the fitter who gave it to me to fit. Anyway it appears to work & confer heroic amounts of -ve camber on the front.

I used the Whiteline bush kit. The ends are matched to the same length & id as the stock components, the trail is 22(ish)mms from memory & the length I settled on was 170mm. Bolted up nicely.

How/what do you think of the Nismo mounts and their finctionality?

[djr81]

How/what do you think of the Nismo mounts and their finctionality?

Well I am not sure they are worth the coin Nissan charge for them but they work & help fix some of the issues the R32's have with front end geometry. So whilst I still begrudge the amount I had to pay & also the amount of time it took to remove the ABS unit & the master cylinder to fit the things in I am pretty pleased with the result.

[bnr#@]

Well I am not sure they are worth the coin Nissan charge for them but they work & help fix some of the issues the R32's have with front end geometry. So whilst I still begrudge the amount I had to pay & also the amount of time it took to remove the ABS unit & the master cylinder to fit the things in I am pretty pleased with the result.

Were you able to source just the mounting brackets on their own or have to buy the kit?

If you got them on there own then where?