Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys got myself a intercooler package at VMS and just thought all you r33 owners would love to see some pics of the work that VMS have done. This package has made a once sluggy r33 into a bullet and still more mods to come.

VMS is located in Footscray, Melbourne. See David or John if you would like a intercooler package. Just tell em Amit sent you.

Heres the pics below, Comments please.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well this was custom installation and stuff around the $1600- $1800 mark. But its worth every cent when you hear the intercooler sound and when the car keeps on pulling you back with boost never dropping.

But they have other packages and cooler sizes going for $1200 - $1500 installed and tuned.

I think they split into two pipes just after the turbo so that two pipes go out the engine bay (out both the original send and return holes of the factory cooler) and into the new cooler. From a flow viewpoint, i can't see that splitting it can be any better than one single pipe.

When you split it so close to the turbo, the air effectively fills double the volume, which (when fluid expands to fill a void) will cause a pressure drop. So now we have less pressure (but more flow) along two pipes, with added turbulence at the split (remember this is why when we have a separate wastegate dump we join it back to the exhaust a fair way down from the turbine so there is no turbulence). Compare this to the pressurised flow of a single pipe - higher pressure, but no disturbed flow or turbulence until it reaches the intercooler.

So when the two pipes reach the intercooler, the flow does not have to distribute itself as much inside the end tanks, and it should in theory flow much more distributed across the IC core. However, this is where fluid flow research is at its best - i am sure that HKS, TRUST et al have done hours of flow testing to ensure their endtanks distribute flow evenly across the intercooler core. Many companies both local and in japan believe that this is the key to a cooler that flows well, cools well and does not restrict flow too much - end tank design. So now the single pipe IC has reached the cooler, and if the endtank is designed correctly the air will distribute across the core (with a fair amount of turbulence. This pressure drop and turbulence will occur with both styles of cooler.

So the charge of air passes through the core at a lower pressure and is collected at the other endtank, reducing the volume (to outlet pipe volume) and hence re-pressurising the air. Now what i am saying is a well designed twin entry should perform as well as a single entry cooler, but there is more scope for variation. This system would work better for a very big turbo, as it will keep pressures up and air flow speed up in the twin pipes before the cooler.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 馃 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 馃槉, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive 鉂わ笍 . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts 鉁岋笍
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 馃槕. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
  • Create New...