Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For that amount of money you could have had a trust vspl cooler. Nengun sells them for about 80,000yen delivered to your door (about $1070 going on current exchange rate) the only mods you need to do is make a hole for the plenum pipe to come up like yours has. Personally I think the welds look shocking and nowhere as neat as a jap cooler. Sorry, but these are a forum and I am entitled to my opinion :wave:

Rob77, he paid $1800 including piping and labour. I don't think that's too bad. I take it the price you quoted from Nengun was just the cooler? Add in import duty, GST, freight, labour and piping and I'd say it'll be well over $1800. Of course, you can still do better than that too, my setup cost closer to $1500 (600x300x70).

Btw WLD747, there is no way that cooler is 700x400. I measured it on my screen and the ratio of length to height is around 3.2:1. The ratio of a 700x400 cooler is 1.75:1. It's more likely something like 700x220 or 800x250.

the size is prob around 700 x 280 x 70. The price i quoted was just an rough figure wasnt more than $1600 but this upgrade was done within a day. But its usually cheaper if you leave you car there for a week or 2.

Labour is the main factor with intercooler upgrades. Very time consuming job. one more thing this includes a new electric radiator fan not clutch fan to make way for the cooler piping so it removes some weight of the engine pullys.

cheers

ak

planning to run lots of HP, ok it takes a couple of days to put on a cooler and make piping, depends on when the shop is busy. I had the guys working on mine most of the day so they could do it in one day. But i had the intercooler and piping ready.

cheers

ak

Try www.nengun.siteblast.com.au, go to trust and you will see that the intercooler kit is quite reasonably priced. True that price does not include gst, but you may not pay gst on it *wink*. Anyway, the kit is complete and for most people more than enough, cheaper than some aussie kits.

Originally posted by WLD747

twin is good reduces lag from turbo and goes through the cooler at the top and bottom.  So ive heard.

Can you let us know what diameter the intake and outlet pipes are? Unless they've put some thought into it (and it doesn't look like it), this setup is going to do anything but reduce lag.

Also, while swapping to an electrical fan is no bad thing, it didn't have to happen. The route that piping takes definitely doesn't interfere with the clutch fan if its done properly. I've had a very similar layout in my car for sometime.

BTW, what possesed you to get a fake intercooler and GTR badge?

(mutters something demoralising about ricers)

Originally posted by rob77

For that amount of money you could have had a trust vspl cooler. Nengun sells them for about 80,000yen delivered to your door (about $1070 going on current exchange rate) the only mods you need to do is make a hole for the plenum pipe to come up like yours has. Personally I think the welds look shocking and nowhere as neat as a jap cooler. Sorry, but these are a forum and I am entitled to my opinion :D

i agree with the weld comment........not to mention the use of what looks like steel piping...steel rusts therefore throwing crap into the engine.....In regards to twin inlet theres not really an advantage unless its a twin turbo...all your doing with a single turbo there is creating unwanted turbulence in the piping.... Border,nismo,ARC use twin entry on GTR intercoolers...its to stop the turbulence/clashing of compressed air between the 2 turbos

personally I think the price is a bit high as it isn't all stainless piping and the size of the cooler is way to big. and the twin entry says to me these coolers were made for a different application.

the cooler on my sr 32 is 600 x 300 x 76 which is plenty big enough for 500 -600 hp bmt did the cooler piping. personally if you ahve a stock turbo there is no real need for a bigger cooler unless you plan on upgrading you turbo it a bigger one.

sr20done1.jpg

Originally posted by rob77

I'd say that cooler has been made with a 500-700hp GTR in mind. Its very large and has the twin entry's for the 2 turbos.

Dunno about fitting that to a big HP GTR...........:confused:

:D i thought it was a GTR when i first say the twin intake...

i agree with you troy, and rob77

The welds are average... The pipint isn't stainless and the cooler really is too big.

It'll induce to much lag being of that size.

My cooler is quite a fair size (ARC) and it's single entry, but i'm running a much bigger turbo.

i personally would like to see some bench testing of that twin and a Blitz/ARC/HKS single entry.

That would tell the true story.

Personnaly I believe that running a twin entry cooler will reduce the effectiveness of a single turbo setup, the disturbance of the air flow through the splitter will surely cause restriction to airflow? There is the other point that it may direct more airflow through one entry than the other and cause pulsing??

In my opinion twing entry should only be seen in two things:

a) Twin turbo applications

B) Pornos.

Doc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
    • Nah, I definitely do that kind of stuff with my car. I do drive it around as a daily! It's just that mindset about building a car to actually still use/retain it's function as a car is rare. If you modify your car into a weekender, IMO you've ruined 5/7ths of the fun. It should remain fun to do daily errands in.
×
×
  • Create New...