Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my theory is that the turbo to IC pipe should be bigger then IC to throttle for 1 reason:

1. Hot air takes up more space then cold air (i.e. is less dense, therfore requires a bigger space to flow the same volume of air)

There are more reasons (and theories) to why i think this setup is better, however that is the main reason.

I just can see how having a smaller pipe (say 2") from the turbo to IC and then a massive (say 3" pipe) from IC to throttle. Why would this setup be better if it is? Can anyone shed any light on this?

Originally posted by zforce

Well my theory is that the turbo to IC pipe should be bigger then IC to throttle for 1 reason:

1. Hot air takes up more space then cold air (i.e. is less dense, therfore requires a bigger space to flow the same volume of air)

I thought it was the other way around

zforce is right with hot air taking up more space than cold air - hot air particles are agitated and thus expand. However, i believe that the reason the piping from the cooler to the throttle is larger than piping from the turbo to the cooler is for a couple of reasons:

1. the smaller the diameter of the pipe after the turbo (within reason, that is, not to try and force it through a maccas straw), the higher the pressure and the faster the fluid velocity. Fast velocity = good for flow to the cooler. While it will be hotter than in a pipe of larger diameter (remember that as air cools it reduces in vol and as air is warmed it takes up more volume), the cooler is designed to shed this extra (if any) heat.

2. After the IC, if the cooler has done its job the air will be significantly cooler than before the cooler. This air hence takes up less volume, and is slower in velocity. However due to the vacuum effect of the intake when the throttle is open (ie. how a N/A car 'sucks' its intake air charge), this reduction in velocity is minimal.

3. Now for point 2 i've said that the air takes up less volume, and the less volume it takes up, the less pressure it is at. This may have a 'pulling' effect on air travelling through the intercooler - remember that air naturally moves from high pressure to low pressure - effectively helping flow of hot air through the cooler.

Hope that is clear... bye :wavey:

Thanks Ronin 09,

Sorry to jump off topic,

I am running a "cut & shut" RB26/25 intake manifold, (il post some pics later)

would that type of setup cost more, than say the standard RB25 Intake setup? Or will they be about the same?

Also will the price inlcude silicon joiners & clamps?

Unsure if that includes silicon joiners, but it is complete. I would guess that if you want silicon joiners it may cost a bit more (they're about 100 bucks each!).

I would again assume that your cut n shut should cost (marginally if any) less as the piping is shorter. Either way they'll have to hack a hole anyway.

Hi Guys, I have a very good reason for gradually increasing the size of the intercooler pipework as the air moves from the turbo to the throttle body. Nissan do it, and they spent heaps on research.

Everybody explains airflow like it's in slow motion. At 4,000 rpm an RB25 at 1 bar will swallow all of the air in the inlet system in less than 1/20th of a second. At that velocity I don't believe 80 degree air (before I/C) is much different to 30 degree air (after I/C). Taking pressure reading proves this to be the case, there isn't any difference unless there is I/C restriction. If the hot air vs cold air made any noticeable difference in pressure, then you would be able to see it, and I never have. So in my opinion too small to worry about.

MrRB20, asked "how much on average would it be to pipe the cooler seeing it is a custom intercooler and the intake and outtake are on different sides unlike the standard cooler which is on the same size ??"

I do my own in aluminium (straight and donuts), silicone (hose) and stainless steel clamps, the materials usually ends up around $500 including about $80 for welding.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
×
×
  • Create New...