Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

also highly interested in a bolt on solution to twin rb26 turbos, as well as dyno or pics and specs

GTR turbos are easy we can put in ATR28SS 350HP CHAR for twin setup. Those are very very tuff little turbo made to handel high boost. Should get you 400rwkws with excellent turbo response.

GTR turbos are easy we can put in ATR28SS 350HP CHAR for twin setup. Those are very very tuff little turbo made to handel high boost. Should get you 400rwkws with excellent turbo response.

very interested, do you have an US dealers ?

Sorry we don't. But we can make them brand new and mail it over if you need. Had many US and Eurp customers lately as our dollar is sitting very low.

Edited by hypergear

I am interested in teting the rb25 bolt on hiflow for you when they are ready.

I can supply you with housings and fit the turbo to my car, tune it and publish the results if you are interested, I have been tuning rb's for a few years and am always interested in bolt on option.

cheers :O

im very interested in this as i am planning on doing it at the same time as a remap,

my car has the usual 'basic' mods (exhaust, intake, fmic, fuel pump, stock boost still)

will somewhere around the 220rwkw+ mark be acheivable with this high flow and a remap in peoples opinions (how much psi would i be looking at runninig out of curiousity to achieve that level)

also what other modifications (if any) would i need to support such power levels.

Edited by AFTDRK

220rwkws is very easy. The high flowed turbo should perform between 230~250rwkws. It should be archived around 18psi or less. By calculation it should archive peek out put of 450HP at 1.3Bar.

There are many dependencies, calculation is normally calculated based on 75~80% of flow capacity. and there are many things that we can do to increase the HP with the ATR28 CHAR in a restrictive environment, but it will results more lag.

The most common profile that we use for R33 high flow is ATR28G2 (400HP) and older G3(450HP) profile. The Current G3 (on the 282rwkws CA) requires a big turbine wheel which the stock housing doesn't seems to have enough meat to be machined out.

Thanks for answering questions etc.

However please be aware you are not a paying trader of this forum, of which there are a lot of businesses paying good money to advertise.

Talking about prices and so on from here must cease until such a time as you are a paying trader.

To become/purchase trader options, please see subscriptions under "my controls"

Thanks.

  • 1 month later...

hey guys, ive sent my turbine housing(not the core) to hypergear today..

ive bein talking to Stao there via email..since i live in perth

anyways..im getting my r33 series turbo high-flowed by them,,

i currently have fmic, pod, hks cat-back exhaust, walbro fuel pump, spitfire coilpack, greddy rs bov, apexi neo afc.

anyways, im just gona bolt this high-flow turbo straight onto my car..

its getting fitted with a ATR28G3 450hp core..

all for $800 :)

anyways my question to u guys is...

will i be able to drive/run my car since i dont have a aftermarket ecu, bigger injectors or a z32 afm..

but ive bein told by hypergear i can..

but 2 workshops here in perth say i wouldnt be able to drive or get my car running...

can some confrim this??

well, they said they can fit a 7psi actuator to it..

so i think im gona get that..

do u guys know what and how much boost i could run with the new turbo?

anyone else running a hypergear turbo on 33 with stock ecu and afm???

well, they said they can fit a 7psi actuator to it..

so i think im gona get that..

do u guys know what and how much boost i could run with the new turbo?

anyone else running a hypergear turbo on 33 with stock ecu and afm???

I want to see results on a RB20....

If the car's going to be tunned for power I recommend to use 14psi actuator so you can alter boost to 24psi. the 7psi actuator can hold a max of 10psi. So depends on further plans to the car.

Any word on using a ball-bearing core instead of the sleeve bearings you've mentioned earlier - and the extra costing around this? (If you're still allowed to talk about costings in public...)

With BB CHRA it will be a Garrett GT2871R or a GT3071/6R CHRA. To do that it will cost $1200AUD+ depends on the CHRA you want to put in it.

With BB CHRA it will be a Garrett GT2871R or a GT3071/6R CHRA. To do that it will cost $1200AUD+ depends on the CHRA you want to put in it.

I'm guessing the 2871 would be a more appropriate sizing for 220-250kw and ultimately quicker spooling and response?

  • 2 weeks later...
It all depends on what you do as calling it "high flow".

What we do is:

Re-profile both factory compressor and turbine housings.

Assemble profiled housings onto ATR28 450HP profile core assemble.

So basically its a brand new turbo with your factory housings for direct bolton purpose.

All ATR turbochargers are covered with 12 month warranty for performance usage.

I have been talking to this guy on NS.com.

So far prooven results with good internals.

gives gt2871r & 3071r garretts a fair run for money! Literally speaking!

For anyone who need rb20 stock turbos for rebuild "cheap as" feel free to contact my at [email protected] or 04218167564.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...