Jump to content
SAU Community

32gtr 4wd Light, Isthere A Workshop/specialist Arround Dandenong Or A Bit Further


Recommended Posts

Well can't really fix 8 and 9 without putting the abs back in. I normally turn the car off and restart it if it's just 8 and 9, I'd try and ask a specialist about your other error code. I have an intermittent problem as well myself but its a different code, in my case it was a g sensor related issue.

Im sure if you study the wiring diagrams and probe an abs module you could put a resistor in wherever it needs to go and wire it accordingly

when i have a warning light go off in my truck for something

i just get a nice big bit of blue tac and cover the light, after that no worries :D

but im hearing ya is annoying this time of year to get into a workshop

there are workshops everywere, try the little guys they always want work , just need trust

iv been to a couple lil guys and they know nothing about skylines or dont wana touch them,if i watch some one fix the problem once then i could probably do it myself but i wouldnt wana touch something were i dont know nothing about,if some one has some spare time we can try together if not ill just keep ringing arround

Below is a list of ATTESSA Fault Codes, ATTESSA Pro (V-Spec) may differ.

1 Right front wheel speed sensor or circuit

2 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit

3 Right rear wheel speed sensor or circuit

4 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit

5 ABS right front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

6 ABS left front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

7 ABS rear wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

8 ABS actuator motor, motor relay or circuit

9 ABS actuator relay or circuit

10 ETS control unit power supply or circuit

11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

12 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2

14 G sensor power supply 1 or circuit

15 G sensor power supply 2 or circuit

16 Lateral G sensor or circuit

17 Air bleed connector or circuit

18 ETS pressure switch or circuit

19 ETS motor, motor relay or circuit

20 ETS solenoid or circuit

21 Throttle sensor or circuit

22 ETS oil level switch or circuit

23 -

24 or ON ETS control unit, ground or circuit

The ABS has been taken out of your car, ignore it. CeJay's removed his ABS as well and also has those codes, but his ATTESSA is working fine. You also had error code no. 2 come up, it has something to do with your 'left front wheel speed sensor or circuit'.

Do some research on this sensor. It's probably stuffed or it's been unplugged by accident.

You don't seem to be having any luck getting this car into a workshop, better off doing the job yourself (Edit: maybe not for some.. do it at your own risk :D ).

Edited by adam-__-

speed sensors are all plugged in i took both front ones out and cleaned them but no luck,got a booking at jap warehouse next wednesday but wouldnt mind something earlier as i had plans for this weekend

so guys looks like ill have to wait till wednesday to take it to japwarehouse unless some1 can find me sum1 to take it to earlier any more places left or we used them all up

Feenin Performance

Dandenong

0403596801

AVR performance

18 beecher st preston

9480 2599

(across the road from impound yard)

Zip Racing

Bayswater

0419290138

Revzone

8-10 molan st

ringwood

98700540

Promax Auto

Alan + Manhon

1 Mary Street

Blackburn

03 9894 0366

Primal Garage

1/380 Somerville Rd

West Footscray

0419156142

Nissco

2 Halbert Rd

Bayswater VIC 3153

(03) 9761 4743

Driftline

21 Thornycroft St, Campbellfield 3061

0425855540

Sabbadin auto

59 roberts ave

Mulgrave

9558 4422

RAJAB RACING DEVELOPMENTS

www.rajabracing.com.au

3/55-57 Randor St, Campbellfield

Vic, 3061

(03) 9357 7587

Poath Road Automotive

151 Poath Road, Murrumbeena 3163

9569 0022

Street Forced Performance

Hampton Park

0425868576

Nismo Performance Centre

Unit 4 / 58 Mahoneys Road

Thomastown

9460 6468

Raceradiators

9793 2798

Racebrakes

9326 6088

Status Tuning

63 Rodeo Drive

Dandenong

97923333 0419590220

RacePace

Holloway Drive

Bayswater Victoria

03 97629421

Dr Drift

Unit 5 / 9 Alick Rd

Brooklyn, Victoria

Australia, 3012

0425 818 755.

Chasers

4/440 dynon rd,

West Melbourne,

9687 7118

RE Customs

16 Yiannis Court

Springvale VIC

03 9548 3414

Sabbadin auto

59 roberts ave

Mulgrave

9558 4422

Protek

273 Dundas St

Preston 3072

9484 3117

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...