Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Turbo Gauge Broken?

snoopy4eva
 Share

Recommended Posts

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

There is a small black box with a vacc hose running into it (located in the engine bay, just in front of the driver side of the firewall) - follow this hose and make sure its connected - if there is nothing wrong with your turbo, this will be the problem.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

As Stan said, it's the black box by your brake master cylinder, it's called the Pressure Sender Unit. They'll die after a while, but you can usually source them from wreckers pretty cheaply. Simple swap one bolt.

snoopy4eva Enthusiast

snoopy4eva

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hi all,

thanks all for the replys and help. Yesterday night i took it for a spin to give it another go. after 10 mins of nothing it just decided to wake up. At first the needle was jumping around a bit until it settled down and started measuring properly. Then this morning when I started, it was working fine, then it died again for about 10 mins, then it came back. Fine since.

It seems that it wakes up when i start to hit the turbo. Usually i drive granny style to conserve fuel on the weekdays. like you guys said it could be the pressure sender unit. anything else it could be? also should mention ive only had the car for about 3 weeks, just imported.

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted
hi all,

thanks all for the replys and help. Yesterday night i took it for a spin to give it another go. after 10 mins of nothing it just decided to wake up. At first the needle was jumping around a bit until it settled down and started measuring properly. Then this morning when I started, it was working fine, then it died again for about 10 mins, then it came back. Fine since.

It seems that it wakes up when i start to hit the turbo. Usually i drive granny style to conserve fuel on the weekdays. like you guys said it could be the pressure sender unit. anything else it could be? also should mention ive only had the car for about 3 weeks, just imported.

About 99% sure it's your sender unit. Exactly the symptoms of a sender unit on it's way out.

.:: GimpS-R34 ::. Grand Master

.:: GimpS-R34 ::.

Posted
Posted

yeah just a faulty sender unit.. guage is fine.. and yeah not a priority as it only shows you the boost level.. how much do you look at it? especially if you drive like a granny..

JI34GT Collaborator

JI34GT

Posted
Posted

Can i thread Hi-jack alone the line? You know the hose that connects to the pressure thingy, mine keeps cracking and coming off and making a hissing noise in the engine bay (which also causes the turbo gauge to not work, so im still on topic :D) but, i cut the hose at the cracked area and stuck it back in, but the problem is im running out of hose to cut, and i think i need to replace the new hose...has anyone done this? and is it hard?

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted

Piece of piss mate. Just unplug the hose from the sender unit to the plenum... measure it up and buy a new one. Then plug back in. While you're there, try locking it in place with cable ties so it doesn't work loose.

JI34GT Collaborator

JI34GT

Posted
Posted
Piece of piss mate. Just unplug the hose from the sender unit to the plenum... measure it up and buy a new one. Then plug back in. While you're there, try locking it in place with cable ties so it doesn't work loose.

Cheers Howie, always helpful. :D I was just worried coz when i looked at it at night it seemed a bit niggly. lol

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

I believe from memory it's a special hose - 2mm ID going into the port in the plenum and 4mm at the sender. You'll be hard pressed to find such a hose so you can either 1) find a step-up/down adaptor (plastic one will do) or 2) use a 4mm hose and just wrap a small zip tie around the inlet port to hold it down.

RusH_ Veteran

RusH_

Posted
Posted

i have this same problem in my basically stock 34, the boost gauge just decides to die and then come back to life a few mins later every once in a while, i started a thread on it also, and i think it might have been howie that said the same thing to me, that it would be the sender unit, im yet to source and install a new one though seeing as it doesn't seem to be causing any problems

snoopy4eva Enthusiast

snoopy4eva

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah, exact same. dies then 5 mins later, strungles and comes back. i'll get to fixing the pressure sender one day i guess. car still flies nicely so im still happy.thanks for all the help all. one last question is what exactly does the boost sender unit look like? i can't seem to locate it. i know i'ts near the brake booster, but still can't find it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...