Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just asking for some help in regards to my aftermaket BOV its an atmos BOV and i was wonder what i have to do to get more flutter.... I realise ppl on hear hat flutter but i dont kmind it so plz dont flame me saying flutter is gay or so 1999 or that its not a good idea as its damaging my turbo as the air is going back into it etc as i have read all about it...

Anyways i have read that best way to do it is to block the BOV so i as wonder where i wound do this and best method to do it?? Any help is appriciated and no sorry i didnt keep my stock BOV but wish i did...

Also my BOV twists so you can loosen it and tighten it... can anyone tell me what the use of that is?

her is the best pic of my BOV i have atm

post-51724-1228868862_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/
Share on other sites

the flutter your talkin g about or "dose" is different to the noise you want.. if you make the bov harder or "open it up" and your sound will increase.. be aware that you will get more stalling with this..

and the more boost you pump in the louder it gets

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309508
Share on other sites

if it has a adjustable spring in there then you can just tighten it all the way

and you will get flutters till it hits certain boost level

oowww ok no worried i will try and tighten it and see what happens.... I get flutter at really low revs but anything over 3000 its not really thre and the BOV is just loud as fark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309619
Share on other sites

Follow these steps:

1) Buy a can of coke

2) drink the coke

3) cut the coke can open

4) put your BOV flange on the coke can and trace the outline with the screw holes

5) cut the outline and drill the screw holes

6) put the cut out peice of the coke can between the cooler piping and your BOV, and screw the BOV back on.

If you have done this correctly, your BOV will not work, and all you will hear is flutter (assuming you have a pod filter)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248366-bov-help/#findComment-4309868
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...