Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I'd take some pictures of taking off my front bumper and make a Tutorial so its easier for other people to give it a shot. so here we go.

1.) Get a flat head screw driver, poke it into the gap of the front indicator (where arrow shows) and pop out the indicator.

1.jpg

2.) There are 5 plastic screws where the grill is, which are easy as popping them up and pulling them out.

2.jpg

3.) 2 screws that hold the body kit onto the fender, one is right at the edge of the bumper, and the other is in the middle which is kind of hard to get too, needa squeeze your hand under or through the cover to get too it.

3.jpg

4.) After those are done, you'd need to push the edges of the front bumper down to clear the little clip that holds in in the middle (Circled in blue).

4.jpg

5.) your bumper should slip off easy and look like picture under. (to fit back on just reverse the process)

End.jpg

After doing all this, looking at installing a fmic never looked any easier :D

Thanks for your time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248385-taking-off-gtt-r34-front-bumper/
Share on other sites

Just one thing that I did differently when I took our off was I took the indicator light/globe out of the holder from behind instead of putting a screw driver near the paint. (showen in step 1.)

You can the leave the whole holder assembly in the bar and then remove it if needed when the bar is off the car it is much easier and you should then avoid all possibilty of any paint damage.

You will also need to remove about a dozen bolts underneath the bar as well that hold the drip tray on and the inner gaurds on.

Other than that great write up

Edited by bigafoot
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

"...the other is in the middle which is kind of hard to get too, needa squeeze your hand under or through the cover to get too it."

Man I am having serious trouble getting my hand (with spanner attached) to that screw. I'm just ripping my arm to shreds. Any special tips on an easy way to do it without losing too much blood?

  • 1 month later...
"...the other is in the middle which is kind of hard to get too, needa squeeze your hand under or through the cover to get too it."

Man I am having serious trouble getting my hand (with spanner attached) to that screw. I'm just ripping my arm to shreds. Any special tips on an easy way to do it without losing too much blood?

Sorry about the late reply, I am hardly on the forums now due to selling my skylines awhile ago..

but to your question, you could take the cover off (Plastic surrounds around the front wheel) there's only couple plastic screws holding it in, 2 on the bottom and 2 in the guards from memory, as soon as you take that off getting to that middle screw will be and ease and you wont have to squeeze in, this takes longer to take off the front bumper and more things to put back on.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

My inner plastic guard is basically stopping me from getting to the screws holding the front bar on near the tyres.

I can' t even get a finger through let alone a screw driver. Any tips for 34 GTR or is it different to GTT as far as removal technique?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...