Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Finally decided to get an EOI on my R33 GTS-T Rolling Shell. This was my show car project before i purchased the GTR and i can't stand seeing it sit idle in the shed any longer.. I am getting expressions of interest at this stage and if you want to make an offer feel free. Won't be accepting anything lowball, there has been a phenomenal amount of money spent on the vehicle and i do realise im not going to get it back like every car enthusiast but i will only accept reasonable offers. Just to comply with the rules ill put a figure of 10k, i still would like people to make whatever offers they feel appropriate. Here is the info -

Body

- Full 90% bare metal respray in House of Kolor Planet Green (Imported from US) with customized metallic flake (went for a finer flake)

- Body Kit is 400R, Front bar has been customised by removing some vent holes to clean up the appearance.

- Body kit has been completely molded to the car not including the front bar, this process is very time consuming and expensive and it looks amazing.

- Door handles and antenna both shaved

- Guards (Under guards where wheels sit) have been completely polished back to bare steel and re-coated lightly with black sound deadener (To make it look new)

- Under body of car has been cleaned and resprayed black to make it look new

- Carbon Fibre Bonnet

- M3 Mirrors (Electric)

- Shaved indicators from front guard

- Drift spoiler molded in

Suspension

- HSD Systems Coil Overs Type HR (Good Ones)

- EBC Greenstuff Pads

- DBA Slotted Rotors

- All Arms / Sub Frame etc powder coated in silver

- All Bush's and rubbers replaced with polyurethane whiteline items

- Camber Kits both sides

- Whiteline rear Sway Bar

- Rear Subframe alignment kit

- All Bolts sandblasted and electroplated chrome

- Driveshaft bolts replaced

- HICAS Lock Kit (Tomei electric type)

Miscellaneous and Brand new parts from Nissan

- Bonnet support rubbers replaced

- Rear Boot rubbers replaced

- Headlight / Taillight bulbs all replaced

- All windows reseated and new seals installed

- New drivers electric window mechanism (entire sliding assembly that window runs in)

- Wheels bearings / hubs replaced (The complete bearing assemble and unit the wheel bolts onto)

- Headlights with second set of headlight covers (custom design moulded in without plastic face)

- Tail Lights

Now the only ISSUE with the car is minor damage on the rear end. When the car was being removed from the hoist at the workshop they rolled it back to fast and the exhaust hit the ground and pressed against the rear bar cracking the rear left hand side of the rear pod. I have been quoted between 400 and 800 to fix this from a number of shops. I was told because the paint has pretty much never seen the sunlight matching the colour and blending it would be simple! Lucky i guess...

post-4555-1228886240_thumb.jpg

The diff has also been rebuilt and the rear cover polished. Car is rolling on Racing Hart Type CR 19" Wheels with 85% Rubber. I will remove parts to drop the price if anyone requests it, the car also has another complete interior wiring loom to go in it which i will include. I also have random parts to go with it which are negotiable like a Trust V-SPL Cooler kit, Cusco catch can, Isotta steering wheel, gear know and hand brake lever / boot. I have forgotten a bunch of stuff im sure but i will update as i remember! Inspections are welcome.

Contact here or on 0432600397 Call or SMS first preferred.

PICS - The orange one is the previous colour and i'm using it to show what the front bar looks like!

post-4555-1228885507_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228885525_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228885538_thumb.jpg

.

post-4555-1228885551_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228885559_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228885605_thumb.jpg

.

post-4555-1228885689_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228886722_thumb.jpg post-4555-1228886787_thumb.jpg

.

post-4555-1228886845_thumb.jpg

Edited by Got Boost?
how much for the shell ???

Without rims i'm currently looking at offers around 8k. Or do you mean literally the shell minus suspension etc? Im also willing to work something out along those lines

Edited by Got Boost?

dude u have a text awaiting reply in regards to interior and gauges i bought off u back at easter hit me back asap plz

  • 7 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Bump! Willing to strip parts to make shell cheaper. Can remove wheels / suspension / bonnet and other gear if required. Really want this thing out of the shed.. hit me with offers.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't remember the last time I saw a good, healthy battery dropping into the 9s during cranking,  Too many variables to say anything about it with any certainty though.  A float voltage of 12-12.2 is tired AF and given how AGMs handle high C rate and DOD, will just die faster and faster with each cold start.   
    • I find most vehicles dip into the mid to high 9 volt range, even with a good battery. Hitting the low 9s, and especially hitting into the 8s is pretty indicative of a dieing battery. The other part to look at is the battery voltage after the battery has been fully charged. They should be sitting at 12.8V, as lead acids are dieing, they head down low and lower. Often getting as low as 12.0 - 12.2. You'll start seeing this when the engine is cranking over slowly. Interestingly, depending on the vehicle, when batteries get really bad, you can see some REALLY funky things going on. From very low voltages, to higher than 16V too. Something I totally didn't expect! This part of the super low and super high voltages I've been seeing on motorbikes, I need to do some further studies on cars. I suspect cars will act a little bit different though for a couple of reasons.
    • Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way.   Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible.  I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
×
×
  • Create New...