Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in 2 weeks me and my housemate are taking off to Darwin from Adelaide, driving up in my Stagea.

I'm fairly sure I've got everything covered, but wouldn't mind some suggestions of what to check on the car mechanically/electrically before we leave to try ensure we have a mis-hap free trip.

I've had the trans serviced, done an oil change, checked timing.. Was going to change timing belt but I'm fairly sure it was done recently - will be doing that once we get back either way.

Don't have any leaks and the cooling system was bleeded (is that a word? I think I meant bled), and coolant looks mint.

Brake pads are all good.

DVD player is all good :D

Of course we'll be taking a tool kit, jack, etc.

Any suggestions for more things to check and test to make sure they wont fail? It's like 7000k's round trip, plus whatever driving we do in the 2 weeks we're up there

The only thing I think we've forgotten to organise is someone to feed the dog while we're gone :down:

Edited by Silhouette31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248426-road-trip-in-my-stag/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Every time I get a new car..............

1) A couple of toilet rolls

2) At least a 4 litre of water

3) A $50 note tucked away.

I've never needed the water or the $50, but, oh boy have me and mine needed the toilet rolls.

All these essentials fit in the little cubby holes in the boot area.

P.S. I'd really love a drive to Darwin and back. And its down to 90c/l.

got a spare tyre in the boot cavity?

yeah, its only the standard space saver though - that reminds me i needa check the pressure of that.

ive done adelaide to melbourne 3 or 4 times in my old R31 Wagon last year.. That was a piece of piss, I'm hoping Darwin will be as easy, but longer.

I would really recommend getting at least a couple of full size spares if your wheels are 17" or larger. The chances of getting a tyre replaced half way up aren't real high. You wouldn't want to get stuck having to do a couple of hundred kays on a space saver wheel *shudders* and with ATTESSA, its not like you can just bung on whatever is available to get you going.

Make damn good use of the roofbars too.

So in 2 weeks me and my housemate are taking off to Darwin from Adelaide, driving up in my Stagea.

I'm fairly sure I've got everything covered, but wouldn't mind some suggestions of what to check on the car mechanically/electrically before we leave to try ensure we have a mis-hap free trip.

I've had the trans serviced, done an oil change, checked timing.. Was going to change timing belt but I'm fairly sure it was done recently - will be doing that once we get back either way.

Don't have any leaks and the cooling system was bleeded (is that a word? I think I meant bled), and coolant looks mint.

Brake pads are all good.

DVD player is all good :D

Of course we'll be taking a tool kit, jack, etc.

Any suggestions for more things to check and test to make sure they wont fail? It's like 7000k's round trip, plus whatever driving we do in the 2 weeks we're up there

The only thing I think we've forgotten to organise is someone to feed the dog while we're gone :D

hey sounds like a mad adventure hope all goes well, wish i could take my Stag on a curz like that.ENJOY THE RIDE

P.S dont forget to check the spare tyre is pumped up.......... LOL

I've driven between Brisbane and Adelaide quite a few times over the past few years. Done it both ways in a n/a silvia, then a turbo silvia, then a couple trips in my previous stagea, and in a few weeks I'll be driving to Adelaide for a holiday (and back) in my M35 Stagea.

The main things I take is my toolkit, bottle of water, and one of those air compressor thingys that plugs into the cigarette lighter (although I'm not sure how useful this would be). Fortunately, I've never had to use any of these and my cars have all coped brilliantly. The only issue I had was with my previous stagea - being fairly finely tuned to 98 octane fuel, it did ping a little whilst overtaking when running on 95 octane fuel (very hard to find 98 octane fuel between Tailem Bend and Parkes). Not a major problem at all - only happened under heavy throttle so I just had to tone it down a little and it was fine :D

I cant speak for Adelaide to Darwin - I'm guessing there are far fewer major towns on your trip so your emergency pre-planning probably does need more thought than mine...I always figure at most I'd be 50-60km from the nearest town and have mobile reception most of the way.

From personal experience, unless your car is prone to breaking down, you should be fine. The most likelihood of any trouble would normally be external to your car anyway (ie. wildlife / other drivers etc). That and a tire blowout - so yeah the spare is pretty important.

I'm a huge fan of the road trip. Its an awesome driving experience...and becomes a part of your holiday.

Its one of those odd things in life where you look forward to the road trip for weeks/months beforehand, then during it you just cant wait to get to the next town, bored with all the driving, impatient to arrive at your destination, but then afterwards you look back on it with very fond memories, and begin planning your next trip. :D

With that fuel issue in mind, pack a couple of bottles of Octane Booster - the Nulon-branded ones just fit in the left side compartment in the boot. Some spare fuel would be a good idea too, considering the thirst of the Stagea, and at least you'll have that little bit extra of the high-octane stuff if you REALLY need it.

A few rolls of dunny paper, water and some extra cash stashed away just in case, as Hugh mentioned.

Check tyre pressures and put in a few extra psi at each corner for the sustained highway running. Regarding the space-saver, they're only recommended for a distance of 100kms at a maximum of 80km/h, so Dale's suggestion of carrying a full-sized spare is a pretty good one.

Spare fan belts should always be included - it's such a simple thing, but can often be vital. I can't remember which belt goes where without looking, but losing an alternator belt means ending up with a dead battery before too long, losing the power steering belt means heavy steering (which will be more of an issue at lower speeds), and the air-con compressor belt would mean you and your passenger(s) sweating to buggery in the Darwin heat. :)

checked my spacesaver diameter, pretty much exact diameter as my 17" tyres, shouldnt upset the Attessa getting to the next town.

What are your 17's? I've got 235/45/17's on mine and am worried to upset the attessa system if i get a flat. Couldn't work out the diameter of the space saver.

back on topic, sounds like a top drive, 7000k's is a long way! I'm sure the stag will hold up well.

Edited by webng
I am off on a roadie as well

That makes three of us, although it sounds like mine will be the shortest:

http://maps.google.co.nz/maps?f=d&sadd...amp;t=h&z=7

I just wanna get out of the city for a while. I've barely left this year, much less driven out. I've already done a run to Oamaru and back and I managed to get 220km on 1/3of a tank. Getting the stag out there on the open road was awesome.

I'm planning to spend NYE on top of Mt. John, which has one of the best observatories in NZ. Hopefully it won't be cloudy.

ive seen the movie 'road trip' and i liked it. so i just assume all road trips would be as enjoyable :)

nah but seriously, the roads are pretty good up there now. sealed all the way! so you should be fine.

if you need to borrow a spare spacesaver wheel/tyre let me know by PM (M/vale area)

genkin recently borrowed mine but thankfully didnt need to use it.

Good luck and enjoy the drive anyways - may thine stagea ghods smile upon thee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...