Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what are hks 3037 pro s like

Excellent turbo for the 25. I'm running one with a .68 rear and supporting mods making 274rwkw @ 18psi on a DD dyno (power mode not shoot out) on BP Ultimate. I don't find lag an issue either just make sure you get a decent tune for off boost driveability and not just outright power.

Same as GT3076R, but ex wheel is 1mm larger. I think HKS have played with a few other things such as comp cover too...

No the compressor and exhaust wheels (for 56trim versions) are exactly the same.

  • 3 weeks later...

right guys i have most my stuff now here is a list

hks 3037 pro s

hks hi mount

power fc with boost control

tomie timing gears

660cc injector

billet fuel rail

greddy copy intake

Q45 throttle body

braded turbo lines

greddy intercooler

tail 38mm wastegate

nismo timing belt

z32 afm

fuel reg

anyway im think i should do copper head gasket before fitting all up so its done what do us think

If it's an external gate, it's a HKS 3037S, not a 3037ProS. Small difference i know, but it's the difference between internal and external gate.

A stock headgasket will usually only blow from detonation and will protect your engine (in theory). A built engine that won't let go from small detonation doesn't want the headgasket popping every second hard thrashing, hence most people go metal headgaskets which are stronger and usually won't blow. Stock headgaskets are only the standard thickness so if your head/block has been heavily decked or you want to run a different CR, aftermarket headgaskets with different thicknesses are your only option.

Just keep the stock one, she will be fine. I've got the head off of my car and will be pushing similar power and have another standard gasket ready to go back in.

yup... like a clutch blowing to save a gearbox, or a fuse saving an electrical component..... i'd rather blow a HG than have to rebuild fully

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...