Jump to content
SAU Community

Safc Neo - Quick Question Regarding O2 Sensor Code 33

colossus

By colossus,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

colossus Community Regular

colossus

Posted
Posted

Have an R34 GTT with mods in my sig.

Before I got the SAFC NEO no error codes.

However ever since I got the SAFC NEO installed and dyno tuned about a few months ago I get the check engine light come on every single time after about 2 minutes of starting the car and driving. The car lightly hesitates for a brief moment as the light comes on, you touch the accelerator peddle gently and the check engine light dissapears then everything is normal. I have driven it like this for a few months then finally got time today to run a diagnostic to satisfy my curiosity. Code 33 comes up which is "heated O2 sensor". I find that strange as I put in a brand new o2 sensor about 6 months ago and also my fuel economy is pretty damn good for a boosted six in 80% city driving - average is 12.2L/100km.

So given that background info my question is - is it common for a SAFC to cause the car to throw up error code 33 and can this be ignored?

bumble_bee Rising Star

bumble_bee

Posted
Posted

hey, wen i got my afc neo installed on my 33..by a tuner...and tuned.

lik 3day later my car went into limp mode..

i couldnt evan rev it past lik3-4000rpms..lol

i had to reset my afc..so i could drive..

then lik the next day i booked it in at another tuner to get it checked..

they said they tuned it way wrong..pretty much no idea..

and they installed it wrong!

plus my o2 sensor was dead...

my mate drop it off at the tuners the first time..

they said i had all sort of bugs/issues in my ecu...

but the second tuner i went to said just get a new o2 sensor..

and dont go back to that other place...lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan 路 Posted

      So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....馃ぃ) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 路 Posted

      Swap the injectors around and see what happens. If the misfire follows the injectors then that's a signal, if it doesn't it's probably not the injectors.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By joshuaho96 路 Posted

      R33 with RB26 seems to go off of learned voltage for idle. Seemed like whatever the baseline voltage was once ECU first gains power will be the idle voltage. With ignition on unplug/replugging the TPS would relearn the idle TPS voltage.
    • MBS206
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Have you confirmed the 2 pin coolant temp sensor on the motor is working properly? I've had a very similar issue when I forgot to plug mine back in many years ago.
脳
脳
  • Create New...