Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 305
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

all paid for... time to spin some rollers :D

cranked boost up to 11, wow what a difference. slight misfire gonna be a problem on the dyno? coil packs are a bit worn :(

you running standard ecu marko?

all paid for... time to spin some rollers :D

cranked boost up to 11, wow what a difference. slight misfire gonna be a problem on the dyno? coil packs are a bit worn :(

Umm whats the gapping on your spark plugs marko

if they are at a standard gap then take them out and regap it to 0.8mm

that should solve the problem

all paid for... time to spin some rollers :D

cranked boost up to 11, wow what a difference. slight misfire gonna be a problem on the dyno? coil packs are a bit worn :(

Could be plugs, what gap you running and how old are they? NGK BCPR6ES are a good plug for the 25 and come pre gapped to .8

Best thing is they are only 26-30 bux a set.

all paid for... time to spin some rollers :D

cranked boost up to 11, wow what a difference. slight misfire gonna be a problem on the dyno? coil packs are a bit worn :(

Add another 10 to that then they start to boogie!!!!

standard ecu, standard coil packs, hybrid front mount, trust 3.5" cat back, in line boost controller @ 11psi on stock turbo, pod filter

ive taken the coil packs out yesterday and insulated them with good quality electrical tape, the plugs were 1.1 but ive re-gaped them to .8 and they're only about 3,000km old. Will be getting some insulating silicone over the weekend for the coils as well as new .8mm plugs + get the afm cleaned up.

hoping it will solve the issue. apart from that im looking in to a toshi remap or safc once i get the rest of the exhaust, injectors and fuel pump. cant be bothered with a whole new ecu as i'm not after much more power so don't really see the point in spending over 2k.

well i hope you get the car running sweet as marko for the dyno day

ahh well you got about a week to get it happening then mate

should see a decent power figure out of that

one would assume so Wayne Daniel only posted up yesterday there were a few spots left... and worst case scenario ill sell my spot on the day if someone missed out

AWD = $50

FWD, RWD = $40

call up Graham West Workshop and sort it out, or drive in, fill out the form and give em the $$.

668 Marion Rd

PARK HOLME

SA, 5043

(08) 8277 5688

and my misfire is sorted :(

Edited by tx3_90
yeah drop in on the day there are always things that keep people attending so there are always spots to buy on the day and as i said earlier worst case scenario ill sell my spot

hmmmmmmmmmm ill decide on the day........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...