Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey need some help today my speedo just decided to stop working and then the power steering stops working about 5 min into driving, i think the speedo has something to do with the power steering not working (not adjusting pump to speed). my question is how does the speedo work is it an electronic sender or is there a cable and if so where is it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanx

sounds lik it could be ur speedo gear aswel..

usually it in the side or top of ur g/box..then the cable runs to the back of the cluster unit..

but dont no if 33 electronic ones or cable ones..neva had to pull mine out..sorry

as for ur power steering issues...hav no idea..has the belt snap?lol

had to ask..

umm...any error codes on ecu??

wat modes u got anyways?

an is ur car an auto or manual??

no speed reading will mean no power steering.

33's are electronic, you can pull the speed sender out of the back of the gearbox and check the gears, just hope its the gears as thats easier to fix then an electrical problem.

  • 2 months later...

Hey guys i have recently had the same problem in my r32. Thought i would search first and found this thread.

My speedo stopped working first, then 30mins later steering went heavy. Power fc isnt getting reading either. Guess thats cos it reads it from the speedo cable which leads me to think that the cables the problem. Also i have an rb25det gearbox. Do the r33's have a sensor in the gearbox that converts in to electrical signal or is it a cable to the dash like r32 because my rb25 gearbox has a cable coming from it to the dash.

Also i spun the gear in the back of the dash with my fingers and the power fc picked up 20km/h but the stock speedo guage didnt so would this mean that the cable is snapped somewhere or that there is a problem with the gearing inside my dash cluster??

Power steering is now intermittant too. 1 min its working fine then the next, it goes heavy.

Hope that all makes sense. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

do a search for r32 speedo cable, there a plenty of both how to change and quick fixes for the 32 cable speedo

33 is electronic, but there has been a few threads on how they are converted over with navara cogs etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...