Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all....

i am wanting to upgrade my turbo in the next month or so and i was wondering wich one i should get??

my car is a r32 gtst, its stock as a rock besides the exhaust, n im gettn spitfire coils n frount mount too... i dont really want to spend the money on gettn and after market ecu so is it possible to upgrade my turbo without the ecu??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248808-what-turbo-should-i-get/
Share on other sites

To do it properly and to make the most of it, you'll need more mods....such as injectors, maybe a larger AFM - z32 and

as always an after market ecu is the best option. You can remap the r32 gtst ecu - but if your spending all that money on mods, you may as well make the most of them and get an ecu.

Why do you need a bigger turbo?

Whats the car going to be used for?

A basic upgrade would be an r33 gtst turbo bolted on.

Or even hi-flow your standard one.

Why do you need a bigger turbo?

Whats the car going to be used for?

im new to sau so plz bear with me....

i want a bigger turbo cause im too used to the power iv got now, my car is only stock and ive been wanting to do things to it for a while now but other thing have tied up my money and time till now....

im wanting to start drifting (as ameture) and see how it goes from there..thats why i bought the 4 door r32 heaps of people where telln me there better 4 drifting..

my mate has a sr20 turbo,, hes got t28 ballbearing ,frount mount , fuel pump,pod filter ,hes running standard ecu on 15psi he ran a 12.9 1/4 mile n ive lined him up b4 n he smoked me.. thats why i thought my standard ecu would be fine...

thanks for the reply and any help would be much appeciated....

you will need to do something with the ecu because if you are putting in more air...you need more fuel...for that you need a new tune + in jectors...

the turbo i am looking at for mine is a HKS item...mate put me on to it last night i think he said the 28/35. then ill get a decent replacement ecu which i am thinking the V44 as seems best bang for buck.

but first i wana do some more suspension + drivetrain. i reckon this'll give me more joy first...as driving in a straight line is pretty boring to be honest.

im new to sau so plz bear with me....

i want a bigger turbo cause im too used to the power iv got now, my car is only stock and ive been wanting to do things to it for a while now but other thing have tied up my money and time till now....

im wanting to start drifting (as ameture) and see how it goes from there..thats why i bought the 4 door r32 heaps of people where telln me there better 4 drifting..

my mate has a sr20 turbo,, hes got t28 ballbearing ,frount mount , fuel pump,pod filter ,hes running standard ecu on 15psi he ran a 12.9 1/4 mile n ive lined him up b4 n he smoked me.. thats why i thought my standard ecu would be fine...

thanks for the reply and any help would be much appeciated....

My thoughts,

Do other mods first as Gus said - do suspension and drivetrain first.

Do a few driver days first, learn how your car goes first, learn how it handles etc

If you just have an exhaust as only mod, I'd look at doing a fmic, boost controller and a retune. this would give you a slight power increase, could even go as max as 160rwkw.

That and some suspension mods and a 1 way diff at a minimum would be good fun!!

I had my line for 2.5 years before I upgraded my turbo!

But if you have your heart set on a bigger turbo - basic upgrade would be an r33 (not sure if r34's bolt up?)

Cheers,

Chris

Depends what your after..

You will need to do a FMIC, Fuel Pump, Injectors, EBC before considering any power. Then you WILL need a computer or a remap...

Even when bolting on a R33/34 turbo, you should do the above...

I am running all basic mods plus injectors and a remap with a R34 Turbo and am just shy of 200rwkw.....next step is maybe a highflow or a aftermarket turbo...once again it depends on what you are after....

Douse has the perfect example :D

200rwkw in a lighter r32, with decent suspension etc would be fun!

but even if you do that set up for a while, you can always upgrade the turbo again later as you'll have the right supporting mods!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...